FC RX7 5.0 race car thread

[Zach Thomas]

found one!

[IMG][/IMG]

this looks like a normal 90* ford water neck with a rad neck/cap welded on. thats more or less what id like to do. probably add it to the winter projects list

Pretty much what I'd envisioned! I guess the best solution will probably be to build something like that...time to find some welder friends to do some aluminum work

[DreKay3]

oh and heres 2 pictures of my X pipe next to a fox body H pipe, you know for comparison

Mann! I have literally read this whole thread, I commented on one of your posts on instagram. I am doing the whole swap, but just started, I got a few goodies with mine like, E303 cams, and stuff like that.
Seeing your thread makes me more excited to do mine haha

[Teeson1111]

Mann! I have literally read this whole thread, I commented on one of your posts on instagram. I am doing the whole swap, but just started, I got a few goodies with mine like, E303 cams, and stuff like that.
Seeing your thread makes me more excited to do mine haha

aha glad to see you made it, and that the thread is helpful!
like I said on IG, any questions, fire away.

Zach, yup thats pretty much my plan too lol

[Teeson1111]

So I was debating waiting to post some of this, but screw it

I bought these



18x10 +38 Gram Light 57 Pro's, yes just two.





they fit super awesome with a 3mm spacer, bringing the effective offset to +35. This leaves me with about 2mm from the trailing arm and just a bit more from the coil over. It also gives me just a few mm from the unrolled fender edge.
I'm now looking for a giant spacer but I'll wait until I've bought over fenders for the rear.

They are in decent shape, 4" lip and fairly light for an 18x10. Got a good deal off a local guy, kinda wish I could've found them in a lower offset, but at the price I paid I'm not complaining even a little.

Then I stole the coils, and the steering wheel and the camber bar and swapped them all into the blue car. Which allowed me to experiment some.



I borrowed my buddy Alex's wheels to get an idea of what to expect in the front. And see what they look like lol
17x9.75 +20~ no camber. lock to lock steering clearence and I lowered it another 2" probably. Not sure what height the JIC coil overs drop it to when not preloaded, which is where I had it before lowering it for the test fit. can't remember a tire size, 215/45r17 or similar




they fit good too, even with virgin fenders

also test fit some kid named sean's wheels that he just bought. 16x10 ET0 diamond racing steelies on 205/50r16 neo gens. they are stupid heavy but I really like the way they fit.



around the same amount of lowering, no camber again.





no theres not a fingers gap



herp derp


also a pro tip:



these come on automatic transmission equipped cars, they make adapting a wilwood master pretty easy. I'll try and post the results when I get around to fitting it on another local 5.0 Rx7

anyway thats all I got. Gonna buckle down for the winter, hopefully stockpile some stuff, help my dad build his CJ, get all the small things done and come out sideways in the spring!

[Zach Thomas]

The XXR 527s look really good on the blue car! The steelies look pretty good too, but 16s just look ever so slightly too small haha. Ahhh must stay focused on car and be patient, urge to buy coils and wheels growing...

On 2 swap-related notes, I will soon have some pics of the way I'm mounting my Wilwood clutch master cylinder in as OEM of a way as possible (pretty easy actually!). Second just in case nobody reading knows, you can buy weld on radiator filler necks from Summit or Jegs. Might be a known fact, but would rather let it be known so somebody doesn't go waste time/effort cutting one off another radiator!

[Teeson1111]

The XXR 527s look really good on the blue car! The steelies look pretty good too, but 16s just look ever so slightly too small haha. Ahhh must stay focused on car and be patient, urge to buy coils and wheels growing...

On 2 swap-related notes, I will soon have some pics of the way I'm mounting my Wilwood clutch master cylinder in as OEM of a way as possible (pretty easy actually!). Second just in case nobody reading knows, you can buy weld on radiator filler necks from Summit or Jegs. Might be a known fact, but would rather let it be known so somebody doesn't go waste time/effort cutting one off another radiator!

lol I actually didn't know that, I'll probably go that route when I do the 2nd cap.

And thanks, I'm undecided on what wheels to go with at the moment. I just want them to be cheap haha

[Zach Thomas]

http://m.summitracing.com/search/par...r-filler-necks lol.

And still can't go wrong with Mustang reps for cheap wheel choices! This S5 belonged to the guy I got my shell from: http://instagram.com/p/mtXlk3Ohts/

[DreKay3]

I am currently looking into wiring this beast. And i am currently in the Air Force, and figured, if I could wire a jet i could wire this... until i looked at everything and relized im more confused than anything. haha. You got any tips on wiring this thing? Im trying to make mine street legal so i need everything to work. I looked on grannys and its not so clear, so im wondering if i am just pretty much fusing the two harnesses together with the ford harness or if im just connecting all the ford harnesses with the mazda harnesses.

[Teeson1111]

lol yes exactly those Zach

btw what are those wheels called? they look like Cobra wheels but dished.

so im wondering if i am just pretty much fusing the two harnesses together with the ford harness = just connecting all the ford harnesses with the mazda harnesses.

This. If you want all the mazda things to work leave them alone.
All cars basically have the same basic connections to the engine: start signal, injector power, ignition coil power, water temp, rpm, etc etc.

You need to find the wires that do this on each harness and basically connect them.

The Ford harness is a lot less straight forward than the Mazda. Mazda builds a separate and removable harness for the engine, where as Ford builds 1 harness for the entire chassis, engine included. (yes most of the engine harness removes, but fundamentally they are built different. something I noticed after doing a few different Ford-Mazda engine swaps)

Ford and Mazda also name things a bit differently. Keep in mind that 1 fuse often powers multiple things, engine and interior.

Once you start doing it everything makes more sense, it sounds really daunting on paper. Take it one thing at a time, check your work, and don't rush. Solder or crimp (whichever side of that debate you stand aha) and do a good job; nothing is worse than electrical issues to me.

are you using a Fox Mustang harness/engine?

Mustang http://www.veryuseful.com
FC RX7 http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_gen/

[Teeson1111]

I've owned this car way to long to only have driven once, I'm barely familiar with it.

lol you've driven my car? I don't follow

[Smeeeb]

I love this.

[DreKay3]

So im sure if i keep the emissions harness, would i just cap off wires that wouldnt be compatible with the fox motor (like rotary motor wires) or would i just remove them?
Im using a Fox mustang engine and harness. yeah i noticed while reading the manual on Grannys that one harness/ or fuse will power like 2 different things.
So would you consider the best thing to do would be de pin and re-pin connectors? If so im thinking i may need to get another mazda engine harness, because i recently got the car with no motor or trans, that was going to do a different swap, and i believe he didnt keep the harness in the car, it sucks, but im trying to figure a way around it. I appreciate the links, by reading them, they look very useful.
I think that once i start, i will do fine, haha just kinda dreading sitting there. but Music feeds the brain, so that always helps!

[Zach Thomas]

lol yes exactly those Zach

btw what are those wheels called? they look like Cobra wheels but dished.

http://www.cruizinconcepts.com/saleensscwheels.asp I think these are them, I can ask my buddy if you'd like!


And DreKay3, don't start depinning harness! Try this, I can't verify it's accuracy but besides the links already given it could help https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...j8xROF2SwhdfMA

[Teeson1111]

I love this.

thanx dude!

So im sure if i keep the emissions harness, would i just cap off wires that wouldnt be compatible with the fox motor (like rotary motor wires) or would i just remove them?
Im using a Fox mustang engine and harness. yeah i noticed while reading the manual on Grannys that one harness/ or fuse will power like 2 different things.
So would you consider the best thing to do would be de pin and re-pin connectors? If so im thinking i may need to get another mazda engine harness, because i recently got the car with no motor or trans, that was going to do a different swap, and i believe he didnt keep the harness in the car, it sucks, but im trying to figure a way around it. I appreciate the links, by reading them, they look very useful.
I think that once i start, i will do fine, haha just kinda dreading sitting there. but Music feeds the brain, so that always helps!

You'll be removing the rotary engine harness/wires. You won't be using anything from it but the connector from the ECU to the body (connector X15 per Granny's site) and keeping a bit of the harness from the engine bay. The harness that has the wipers and a few gauge signal wires.
The Granny's wiring page on ID'ing RX7 connectors and wires is pretty helpful. It will help you figure out what (if any) wiring you're missing.
Dont remove anything until you're sure you don't need it, but de-pinning is a clean way to remove wiring you don't need. I re-pinned my connectors but I also eliminated 90% of the RX7 wiring.

http://www.cruizinconcepts.com/saleensscwheels.asp I think these are them, I can ask my buddy if you'd like!

Those aren't the ones, but browsing through that site the ones are on there. "03 Cobra Deep Dish Replica Wheels" however they don't appear to have any... oh well

[Zach Thomas]

Oh yep, totally pasted the wrong link haha. My buddy didn't remember where he ordered them from, but he was 90% sure they were 17x9 and 17x10.5 and referred to them as "Cobra R" replicas. He said they were under $500 shipped, love me some cheap wheels