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[180roman]

Hi All,

This is my daily/slider

Name:
Roman

Model:
180SX Type X

Colour:
White

Bodykit:
Type X

Engine Type:
SR20DET Blacktop(Non-VCT)

Engine Mods:
Pod
ARC Sidemount Super-Intercooler

Power:
123.8kW

Exhaust:
3" Nismo Catback

Gearbox:
5-Speed Manual

Diff:
4.1:1 Weldy

Brakes:
R33 GTS-T 4 pots front, 2 pots rear, drum handbrake
Motul Brake fluid
TRW Lucas brake pads front
(TRW Lucas brake pads rear, soon to go in)

Suspension:
5 Stud conversion
Whiteline swaybars
adjustable camber, toe and caster
BC RM Coilovers

Wheels/Tyres:
BBS LM 17x9 +20, reversed faces to make 17x9 +5 with 205/40/17 BF Goodrich G-Force Sports front, 215/45/17 Achilles ATR rear
BBS RS 17x8 +/-0 front 215/45 Goodyear Eagles
BBS RS 17x9 +20 rear 225/45/17 Conti 2s
BBS RS 16x8.5 +14 (rear)
Borrowed Z Stockies 16x7.5 +45 (rear) with second hand tires

Interior:
Sheep skin seat covers(luxury spec )
Fire extinguisher
GReady Informeter
Blitz i-D Power Meter
Blitz i-D Boost Gauge

Other Mods:
Zipties

Stereo:
Pioneer

Build Period:
Forever

Cost:
NFI

Future mods:
Diamond Black centers, polished lip on BBS LMs
S14 LCAs for more camber and track at the front
S14 Subframe
Solid subframe bushes
PBM bent toe arms
PBM camber arms
Custom exhaust tucked close to the body
Welded diff, to make 3 wheeling out of driveways less of a PITA
5" Swift 10kg springs for more low
Tub the front guards

[Oxer]

Looking good so far dude.. Be sure to hit up the Melbourne thread in the international section...

Welcome to stanceworks!

[180roman]

thanks,

clutch is fried right now so i've been just put-putting around trying to save up for a HD clutch

hopefully after the clutch the BC coilovers are next on the list

[Drama]

noice. I like it!
Welcome To Stanceworks!

[Oxer]

New clutch is in... Now for the Coilovers... Right Roman? haha

[180roman]

ha ha i totally forgot to update this thread

yeah HD Clutch has been fitted and nicely worn in

also my BBS LMs have arrived from Japan

Here is some photos of the car as it is now, and the new wheels

wheels on the front are still BBS RS, now running -2deg camber after an alignment, still pokes out a bit too far, needs more low and more camber to fit properly

BC Coilovers are next on the list now

[180roman]

more pics of the LMs

[Johnny5]

I like I like

[Oxer]

Looking good man... But you need to stop buying wheels and get coilovers!

[180roman]

i'll stop buying wheels if you give me your CCWs.... deal..... lol

[implayaz9]

I wish I could find a better to buy wheels from japan.

[bryan3976]

tuff 180

[180roman]

due to buying wheels and tires i started to run out of room in my garage

so i did a bit of a side project and built myself a tire rack

before



after



the complete tire rack build thread can be found HERE

[180roman]

I went down to Repco today and bought an 8mm and 10mm 12 point sockets as well as a 1/2"drive x 1' extension

so I got home and decide to see if i could separate one of the LMs to see what I'm up against

The bolts were pretty easy to unbolt once you crack the loctite

20 bolts


the center was sitting in there fucking tight
with all the bolts undone and removed, i could stand on it and it would not fall out of the wheel
i had to use a hair dryer and stomp on it with my foot for a few minutes until it fell out





the good news is, the wheel barrel thickness is 6mm and the center mounting section is 9mm

which means that by putting the centers from behind they are becoming 15mm less offset, 17x9 +5 offset

i was going to slide the centers in from the back to see what they would look like, but the lip needs quiet a bit of work with some polish before it looks any good. one of the wheel weights on the inside of the barrel also needs to be removed, so i can slide the center in as it doesn't let it sit straight

as it can bee seen from the picture of the wheel bolts they are not looking their best with rust showing
what can i use to remove the rust and restore them to looking clean again?

[Oxer]

Wheel bolts are a hard one... Might be easier to source some new bolts rather then trying to refinish those.. Otherwise, you could hit them with a wire brush and get them re chromed or painted...

[implayaz9]

if u decide to sell any of ur sets let me know.

[180roman]

some work in progress shots

the LMs after disassembling

there was no clear coat under where the center mounted so all that black stuff is dirt and corrosion
this pic was after hitting it with a scotch pad

so i got out some 240grit and 600 grit paper and went to work on 1 area to see what it would come up like

here is the result after giving it a quick buff with a cloth

[180roman]

a couple of hrs of hard work

i decide to use the wheel with the most clear coat damage and 2 little bits of gutter rash, just in case i damage the clear coat more while sanding them

i also quickly reassembled the wheel centers in the position i would like to run them on the car with 4 bolts to hold them in place and measured the offset with a ruler, confirming that my calculations were correct, making them 9" +5 offset

here is the result




i really don't like the visible line between the clear coat and the part i sanded and quickly polished with a rag, so i think my only choice is to fully strip the clear coat and re polish the lips

there is also a slight 0.5mm step in the lip between the clear coat and the part i sanded, which i will also need to sand down when i get some more abrasive sandpaper, 100grit should do

[Oxer]

Strip them and get wheel tech to hit them with another fine coat of clear!

[180roman]

i've got like a cramp in my hand from sanding that wheel

need to polish them all 1st then i'll get WheelTech to hit them with some clear if their price is reasonable

[Oxer]

Well worth it dude, Uncoated alloy goes milky ater a while, the ccw's already have.. Im gonna get them polished in a while and hit with clear..

[Mark Ostrowski]

Originally Posted by 180roman

a couple of hrs of hard work

i decide to use the wheel with the most clear coat damage and 2 little bits of gutter rash, just in case i damage the clear coat more while sanding them

i also quickly reassembled the wheel centers in the position i would like to run them on the car with 4 bolts to hold them in place and measured the offset with a ruler, confirming that my calculations were correct, making them 9" +5 offset

here is the result




other than that great work so far

i really don't like the visible line between the clear coat and the part i sanded and quickly polished with a rag, so i think my only choice is to fully strip the clear coat and re polish the lips

there is also a slight 0.5mm step in the lip between the clear coat and the part i sanded, which i will also need to sand down when i get some more abrasive sandpaper, 100grit should do

i can't see pictures in this post and the one before it

[180roman]

yeah i know i'll ask Laurence from WheelTech how much to just coat the lips

thats coz u got the Track model CCWs which are raw

oh also a little birdie/tracking number told me that my skid wheels are almost here
they arrived in Sydney on Thursday, which means they will be here on Monday

i've got something special in store for those

[180roman]

Originally Posted by Mark Ostrowski

i can't see pictures in this post and the one before it

i'll fix that in a minute

will re-host pics to photobucket

[Oxer]

Originally Posted by 180roman

yeah i know i'll ask Laurence from WheelTech how much to just coat the lips

thats coz u got the Track model CCWs which are raw

oh also a little birdie/tracking number told me that my skid wheels are almost here
they arrived in Sydney on Thursday, which means they will be here on Monday

i've got something special in store for those

Which is Why I am not rushing to clear them haha.. To me they are just wheels.

Cant wait to see what you do with then next set haha.. You gonna run the lm's on the 26th? or rs?