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11-26-2011, 03:37 PM
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#101
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MotherFucker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zic
Then you need to prime it, sand the front of the mesh down to metal, paint it then sand it down again.
You will need to sand down to metal between each step or else you will not get a perfect look.
because if you imagine the paint layers, first primer (white / green / what ever) then the color you want the windows in, (orange / blue / etc) if you don't sand down to metal on each paint layer you will see the primer "edge" on the inside of the paint.
I have a hard time typing down what i mean, but hope you get the idea.
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definitly get what you mean. makes perfect sense now that youve explained it. Thanks!
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12-15-2011, 08:55 PM
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#102
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I'll be going on with mother's billet and see how they look...
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04 .:R32DBP jawn on CCWs with a HPA FT450 kit.
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12-16-2011, 08:43 PM
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#103
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question: I used the aircraft stripper and it looked really shiny, so I skipped to the 1200 grit wet sanding...and it made it dull, and I was like wtf, so I kept at it and nothing. Then I started using 1200 dry sanding and it's making it more shiny now. Like that's where I'm at atm. Do you recommend going back to 500 and starting over from there? Do I wet sand all the grits? When I was wet sanding with the 1200 the sandpaper was deteriorating pretty fast, is it supposed to be like that? Also, I went to Lowes, Home Depot, Northern Tool, and I asked for a jeweler's kit, and they didn't know anything, also they only had up to 600 grit. So I found a store that went up to 1200 grit and they had a kit that had two buffs (that attach to a drill) with a red rouge and a white rouge. Do I still need to get a compound then use the white rouge?(it says on the box that the red is for gold, siver, and bronze only). Then I was planning on going to get the mothers mag polish. Like pretty much I was gonna do what the write up says, but I'm kinda confused about the sanding part that i'm on right now. I'm no expert at this as you prolly know by now. Any help is appreciated as i'm going to start working on them tomorrow morning again.
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12-16-2011, 08:57 PM
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#104
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ugh
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Just finished one of mine.
It was pretty dull after having sanded them from 400-2000 and then steel wool. Started polishing them (with Meguiars) and they got really shinny.
So, I assume you should sand them up to whatever grit you like, and then bust out the polish.
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12-18-2011, 01:44 PM
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#105
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Has there been made a vid as mentioned in 1st post?
I've got a few questions for you guys..
1. What buffs do you use? Where can I get them? (ebay or online store)
2. The 3M wax which is recommended.. is it this one? http://dennysautoparts.com/assets/im...6_31989898.jpg
4. Any recommendation of great polishing products in general? To generate a kit
I've got lots of wheels to be polished.. and I've got hold of wheel hubs(cut of wrecked cars) with the bolt patterns I want. I am making a bracket where I bolt the wheel on the hub and it will rotate. Will perhaps add an electic motor with belt/wheel to turn the rim around, would be very helpfull when sanding! I'll post up pictures when I've made it!
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'87 Toyota Supra MKIII
'76 Toyota Celica ST2000
Last edited by ScottNicolas; 12-18-2011 at 02:24 PM.
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01-09-2012, 08:18 AM
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#106
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this could help someone. that's what I've done on my ZW2..
5€ this product:
after 10min...
and the result:
very easy, and do what haave to be done.
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01-09-2012, 08:39 AM
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#107
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Question for you guys; I have often worked up through grits to 2000 wet, and then gone to a 3 stage polish compound (black, brown, white in that order) before finally finishing with mothers polish. The black compound works really well but the brown and white seem to almost melt into the wheel and the pad. Any thoughts on why this might happen? I have varied my speed but no matter what the result is the same.
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01-09-2012, 09:54 PM
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#108
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sounds like too much brown/white on the mop(s).. try using a rasp to resurface the mop, reapply desired polish and try again.. if not, just skip it and use some metal polish called Diamond Brite Truck Box Polish you can get at Lowes (Warden/Eglinton store has some)
- Chris
What do you do when you strip your wheels and they are in good shape? Here's some of my strategies to get that deeper shine..
- I stripped my lips from my Volks (circa 1996).. They were in good shape other than the machining marks... I don't care about the machining marks too much as I will DD the wheels through rain, dirt, etc...
Strip lips using Dumond Smart Strip. It has no VOC (no smell), non caustic, and 100% biodegradable... which means you can use it in doors and it hardly smells and you can put it down the drain afterwards.
Just brush it on, easy, it's like yogurt.

Once it dries up and starts working it looks like this....
This is what a stripped one looks like against a non-stripped.
Then I hit it with 1000 wet sand to remove some of the machining marks.
Then 2000 wet...
By choosing wet over dry it reduces clumping of alum oxide in your paper.. hot water makes the paper wet up faster.
Then all I did after 2000 was hand polish with Diamond Brite Truck Box Polish.. best polish out there IMO. Hardly takes any time at all with this polish no joke.
Factory Volk finish VS polished

Volk VS polished
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01-10-2012, 09:00 AM
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#109
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Great, thanks for the tip, I will try less compound and see how that goes.
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01-10-2012, 05:39 PM
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#110
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Ivan
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thanks for the tip c.Johnston I have lm's and want to strip them beacouse the clear looks dull but they have no curb rash. so im gonna strip them and then polish them
any good stripers out there other than Dumond Smart Strip
Last edited by yotatuner; 01-10-2012 at 06:07 PM.
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01-10-2012, 06:58 PM
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#111
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i don't know, i used the safe strip and never bothered with anything else... ive used poly supa strippa but it sucks, burns your skin and smells like shit lol.. ive heard aircraft stripper is good but ive never used it.. i like the "green" stuff ... you can get it at home depot
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01-23-2012, 10:54 PM
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#112
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Can you go head and use these steps on an aluminum manifold. im looking for the "Polished" look under the hood and it seems like this would work pretty well...let me know, thanks
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01-24-2012, 05:54 AM
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#113
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Oh my! You almost scared me to death. I've read the topic of this thread and saw 'polishing lips'. I thought that I missed something. But then I realized what you mean. facepalm.
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01-25-2012, 02:29 PM
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#114
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How about using mother's billet? is that a good product? I'm assuming using the cone would make the job easier right?
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01-25-2012, 02:37 PM
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#115
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Rise above the lameness
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xGmoneyx
How about using mother's billet? is that a good product? I'm assuming using the cone would make the job easier right?
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i use that to refresh my wheels.
get which ever the foam one is, not the bullet that has flaps and shit.
it will probably work to apply rouge or a good polish but ive never tried.
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01-25-2012, 02:44 PM
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#116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesus Christ
i use that to refresh my wheels.
get which ever the foam one is, not the bullet that has flaps and shit.
it will probably work to apply rouge or a good polish but ive never tried.
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Well this is how my wheels look like after I washed the car, I used the wheel soap and brush, I know that was stupid of me but I was in a rush and wanted to wash my car...
I actually purchased the mother's billtet since everyone told me that would do the job. I still have not yet to polish a wheel, been lazy..lol
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04 .:R32DBP jawn on CCWs with a HPA FT450 kit.
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01-25-2012, 02:48 PM
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#117
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Rise above the lameness
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yeah that foam applicator will work on water stains if you use it with a drill.
ALWAYS dry your raw polished wheels off after making sure there is no more soap anywhere near them.
protip: wax or seal the lips so water beads up and doesnt make contact with the raw aluminum.
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01-25-2012, 02:51 PM
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#118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesus Christ
yeah that foam applicator will work on water stains if you use it with a drill.
ALWAYS dry your raw polished wheels off after making sure there is no more soap anywhere near them.
protip: wax or seal the lips so water beads up and doesnt make contact with the raw aluminum.
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So the mother's billet would do the job? and u said the cone would be better than doing it by hand right? should I finish off the job with something else or after I'm done I'm good to go?
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04 .:R32DBP jawn on CCWs with a HPA FT450 kit.
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01-25-2012, 02:58 PM
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#119
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Rise above the lameness
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xGmoneyx
So the mother's billet would do the job? and u said the cone would be better than doing it by hand right? should I finish off the job with something else or after I'm done I'm good to go?
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after you hit it with the foam mothers thing, making sure you get in there and go slow. it will still be hazy so you have to rub the shit out of it to get it to shine but they look like new afterwards. use the softest microfiber or terry cloth or you'll mark them up again.
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01-25-2012, 03:06 PM
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#120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesus Christ
after you hit it with the foam mothers thing, making sure you get in there and go slow. it will still be hazy so you have to rub the shit out of it to get it to shine but they look like new afterwards. use the softest microfiber or terry cloth or you'll mark them up again.
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Good stuff man, I guess I have to touch them up a couple of times then, and yea I have a bunch of micro-fiber towels. This should be fun, haha.
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04 .:R32DBP jawn on CCWs with a HPA FT450 kit.
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01-25-2012, 03:12 PM
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#121
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Rise above the lameness
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xGmoneyx
Good stuff man, I guess I have to touch them up a couple of times then, and yea I have a bunch of micro-fiber towels. This should be fun, haha.
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yup, i suggest you take the wheel off too.
look in to wheel wax or zoop so you only have to do this process once in a while.
for what its worth, myself and 95% of people i know let it rock until they have to go somewhere cause its annoying to do every week. so IMO the upkeep is easier said than done without the wax or sealer.
i should take my own advice and wax my wheels
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01-25-2012, 09:22 PM
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#122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesus Christ
yup, i suggest you take the wheel off too.
look in to wheel wax or zoop so you only have to do this process once in a while.
for what its worth, myself and 95% of people i know let it rock until they have to go somewhere cause its annoying to do every week. so IMO the upkeep is easier said than done without the wax or sealer.
i should take my own advice and wax my wheels 
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Yeah, wheels are off, it's just getting my lazy ass and start working on them, I will be taking the faces off to make the job easier. Yeah I'll look into it, these wheels are another thing to care for other than the car and everything else in my life, but when they are all nice and clean, it's all worth it....
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04 .:R32DBP jawn on CCWs with a HPA FT450 kit.
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03-15-2012, 08:14 PM
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#123
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Ivan
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took my lms off today taking unmounting the tires tomorrow and then taking the faces off and start to strip the lips will try to post pics of the process
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03-16-2012, 11:37 AM
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#124
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03-19-2012, 04:17 PM
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#125
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Ivan
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How long should i let the dumon smart strip sit before removing it ?
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