StanceWorks » Tech » Ride Control

[ff_drift_lol]

so I shimmed my rear hubs
got this

the camber is within spec, just 7 degrees moar negative than stock, so it technically shouldn't pull.
it feels like a boat in the rear, and it likes to drift around. not dangerously, but it feels kinda weird. is this normal?

[aar0n.]

You probably have huge toe issues. Also, where the hell did you find shims that can achieve 7 degrees of camber??

[240sx]

Originally Posted by aar0n.

where the hell did you find shims that can achieve 7 degrees of camber??

this

[Bimmerteck]

I'm guessing stacked 3.5 degree shims. Way more camber than you should ever need. I have no Idea what "normal" would be for that much camber b/c I try not to exceed 2 degrees of negative camber.

[Lux]

Why do you need that much camber? Your wheels are still tucked way back in.

[ff_drift_lol]

still working on fitment. 30mm spacers are not the cheapest.
that toe thing sounds pretty interesting. i haven't checked the toe idk why.
the spacers are 1/4" steel that i made. call it ghetto if you want, it's a legit setup.

[Lux]

Pics of the shims and install?


You should do a DIy. Theres no camber kit options for my car except up front.

Im working on 30mm spacers myself. I cant find any under 155$ a pair.

[Streetkarnage]

WTF how is this done..? need more details please..!!

[civicseth]

30mm spacers? Why don't you just find some wheels with a lower offset and wider?

[seventhskyline]

Originally Posted by civicseth

30mm spacers? Why don't you just find some wheels with a lower offset and wider?

Because wheels that fit 'are not the cheapest'.

[Lux]

And in the case of the 5x108 BP, impossible to find.

[ff_drift_lol]

it's 5x110, no one makes a good wheel for my bolt pattern unless i'm willing to spend dough. researched wobble bolts, drilling wheels, in the end i really just can't afford it.
diamond racing is def on the top of my list.
but for now, i like my stockers and they fit the car well.
I wanted to keep the shims a secret, but it's pretty simple anyway. I just used a chop saw to shape rectangular pieces of 1/4" steel and then drilled with a 3/8" bit to fit my particular hub setup. had to grind a half moon shape into the side of it to compensate for the centric design. the shims are angled by trial and error. just a few trips back and forth from the car to the grinding wheel.
I had to modify the caliper brackets since they are not part of the hubs, so I took off about 1/4" on the top thread and added a 1/16" washer under the bottom.

hope this gives you gyus a better idea of the options out ther for you

[JVC]

Originally Posted by Lux

And in the case of the 5x108 BP, impossible to find.

Tell me about it... Volvo, Jaguar and Ferrari along with Ford Taurus' and shit...

[1lojet1281]

Originally Posted by ff_drift_lol

still working on fitment. 30mm spacers are not the cheapest.
that toe thing sounds pretty interesting. i haven't checked the toe idk why.
the spacers are 1/4" steel that i made. call it ghetto if you want, it's a legit setup.

you can get 25mm H&R track+ spacers for like $125, or you can hit up adaptec and get a set of custom spacers spacers for about the same money.

[civicseth]

I see, I see. Well, good luck and I'm ready to see some pictures once you get it all put together!

[Lux]

Originally Posted by JVC

Tell me about it... Volvo, Jaguar and Ferrari along with Ford Taurus' and shit...

Ferrari, thats my only option and for what a set of nice Ferrari wheels cost I can get a set of blanks MTO.

Anyway, op, you should really get some pics of these shims up.

[Lux]

Originally Posted by 1lojet1281

you can get 25mm H&R track+ spacers for like $125, or you can hit up adaptec and get a set of custom spacers spacers for about the same money.

Adaptec wants 160 plus 20 shipping. I have been looking into the same thing and H&Rs wont have the proper center bore.

[ff_drift_lol]

160 each or for a pair? i gotta look into it myself. thanks for the info.

[1lojet1281]

Originally Posted by ff_drift_lol

160 each or for a pair? i gotta look into it myself. thanks for the info.

their prices are always for a pair, and their prices also include bolts.

[JohnnyVillan]

how is -7 degrees of camber "within spec?"

Maybe -.7 but not -7

[ff_drift_lol]

if you've ever used an alignment machine on a car with drastic suspension geometry, you can figure it out. it's not 7 degrees, i am not sure how much it is. pretty much there should be no camber pull since the wheels are still aligned, just more negative. shit i wish i could explain it better lol.


ok so I did an alignment today, whadda ya know the toe is positive now. I'll be updating this thread with pictures as I fine tune the setup.

[seventhskyline]

Originally Posted by ff_drift_lol

it's 5x110, no one makes a good wheel for my bolt pattern unless i'm willing to spend dough. researched wobble bolts, drilling wheels, in the end i really just can't afford it.

Yeah I'm sensing a theme... In all honesty, why not roll stock while you save for wheels and suspension that isn't ghetto and does fit etc, than ghetto manufacturing stuff so you can roll around with eleventy billion degrees of camber and your wheels in the shadows?

[Cambi]

When I had my 5x110 bp car I bought some 2-piece BBS RKs 17x8 et35. It sat nearly flush with the fenders without spacers. With a tiny spacer it would have been completely flush. Wheels are out there for that bolt pattern, you just have to look. Ronal makes a bunch too.

Here are those BBS:




I actually still have the wheels, just not the car.

[Quail@Drifted]

I'm not fully understanding why you wanted so much camber? Surely just spacing wheels slightly without the camber would of looked a lot better? You wouldn't of needed big 30mm spacers. Normally camber is applied after the wheels have been fitted, depending on how much further arch clearance you need.

This just seems strange to me?

[chev_chelios]

would look kinda titties if you had some super dished wheels out back so i'll be checking this thread later when you finally get to that point............and the rear is going to slip out no matter what due to how much of your tire is actually touching the ground now. even if you fix the toe-in it's going drive like shit. i'd advise to never drive in the rain or snow with the way you have it now. negative camber is a show thing, for people who want to drift in low horsepower cars, or for people who always drive slow (like city dwellers).

i've been there: