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I need help picking these offsets/tire sizes guys...

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  • I need help picking these offsets/tire sizes guys...

    Okay guys.

    I have the rear fitment figured out. I need help with the front fitment now.

    When I first started, I had on the car 20x9 +38 offset wheels with 245-35-20 tires on it. It looked awesome but couldn't turn and ended up screwing up my fenders.

    Since then I went to a 225-35-20 tires on the same 20x9 +38 offset wheels and now I can turn just fine and it works alright just doesn't have the 'stance' i was hoping for. its kinda too far in for my taste. example.

    So as my other thread recently posted shows, I'm about to get myself a new set of concave vossens.

    The question is, which offset do I get them in? They are available in +20 and +38. Either way I dont want to buy a new set of front tires beacuse they are literally barely a month old. So I will be doing 225-35-20 tires.

    If I do the +38, its a given that I will have exactly what I have now, which I know is safe and will work.

    The question is, can I do the +20 offset to help give me that little more flush look that I'm looking for, while still being able to turn?

    What would you do? stick with the +38 and be safe? or go for the +20 and hope for the best?

    Any suggestions you guys can offer, I'd really appreciate it.

    I've been playing with all the calculators but I just can't 'be sure' that I'll still be able to turn.

    When I do the math I feel like the 225 on the +20 offset would net me the same fitment as the 245 tires +38 offset, which looked awesome but didn't work. But since the 225 is more stretched and curves a lot more on the wheel than a 245 would, that maybe it would actually work?

    The other option is to just do the +38, and get myself a 15mm spacer... ultimately though is 3mm that big of a difference? If so then maybe its the best way to go. If its not that big of a difference (3mm) then I'd rather go spacer-less and not have to deal with the potential vibrations etc... that a spacer has the potential to cause.

    I know its long winded guys but I just want to talk you through my mentality and to show what avenues I've been down in trying to decide.

    Please ask any questions for anything I may have been unclear on, and please offer any help/suggestions/advice you can!

    I want that amazing flush look... but the car being drivable as its my DD is more important... so if +20 isn't a compromise but instead a complete decision to go for the look route vs. the function route then I guess its not for me.

    I'm hoping the +20 but with 225 tire is the compromise I'm looking for.
    Last edited by starbai; 04-06-2010, 03:18 PM.

  • #2
    i'd go +20

    ig: @jonnie86

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    • #3
      I need more than that boss... what do YOU think the outcome will be? Will I barely be able to turn like with the 245 and +38's?

      Will I be safe, and be like where I'm at now with the 225 +38s? I'm looking for some technical help beacuse one I make the choice theres no turning back, I dont want to stretch any further than 225 on a 9" wheel so its not like I'll have the option to stretch a little more just to make it work the way I had that option before when I went from 245s to 225s.

      h and also pertinent info, the fender liner has been cut and fender has been rolled as much as its going to be so doing the 20 and then stretching/rolling further if i have to isn't an option, its as far as its going to go, and it has been ever since before I started out with the 245/35 on the +38. So everything I've said, assume rolling/pulling the fender is to the max in all situations listed above.

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      • #4
        it sounds like it will be the same as having 245 +38, 18mm more poke with 20mm less tyre width... you'll have 2mm to more than the 245 set up. I don't know how it turns but 2mm is sometimes a lot. You could try less wall if all else fails?

        Measure how much space you have at full lock then subtract 20mm, does it still clear?
        Last edited by Anonymoose; 04-07-2010, 06:14 AM.

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        • #5
          i have the "make it work" mentality. Theres always some fine tuning involved when you trying to get things close.

          ig: @jonnie86

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          • #6
            Thats just it, I'm not sure how much fine tuning there is left for me to do.

            The camber in the front I believe is around -3.4 already. I cant find my print out so thats from memory.

            I dont want to have to buy a new tire so stretching even more- to a 215 35 20 (if that even exists I dont know) isn't something I want to have to do.

            The fender rolling was already done and the front fender doesn't have much play so its pretty much as stretched as far as its going to go.

            I guess my point is, I dont mind fine tuning things to make it work, but if I've gotta drop a lotta green, (body work, new skinnier front tires) then its just not worth it, the 38's look pretty good as is.

            I was hoping you guys could help me with some poke/width math.

            beacuse from what I understand the mild stretch of a 225/35 on a 9" wheel will give me more poke, but not exactly so much match/width that it would hit the fender... but given the over all offset pushing it out I dont know if it will be too much.

            idk...

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            • #7
              Isn't this a simple thing? Measure your set up at full lock then take 18mm from that measurement to compensate for the offset difference..

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              • #8
                You're absolutely right. My dumbass didn't think of that.

                It looks to me like 18mm would be too much. 10mm would be ideal. So I guess what I'll do is just pick up the +38 and find a set of 10mm spacers to purchase. The rim actually has quite a bit of recess in between each hole so there should be enough room for the stock studs to go through the spacer and live in the rim. The problem is finding a pressed in spacer that is hub centric now lol... 64.1 Project kics requrires you to buy the hub ring separately so that may work.

                Here are a few pics:




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                • #9
                  Looks like it's closest when your turning out although seems to be a bit of room? Hard to tell from the pics. Have you checked the alignment more so your caster? The wheel looks closer to the front of the arch than the rear when turned, maybe a bit positive... I'm new to playing with caster though so someone correct me if that's the wrong way to go...

                  So did the Vossen's in the shoot rub? If not get those fuckers they looked sweeet
                  Last edited by Anonymoose; 04-07-2010, 01:18 PM.

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                  • #10
                    They were close to rubbing but actually okay... the tires mounted on them were 245/30-20 too skinny, off for the cars overal diameter requirement... speedo would be off a few mph.

                    Rears were a 25 profile tire... looked like rubber bands, too harsh for a daily driver.

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                    • #11
                      Hmm get that caster checked then, it might be a win!

                      Sick Accord by the way, I never really got into Honda's but that is hot

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