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'91 Civic EF Needs maximum low

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  • '91 Civic EF Needs maximum low

    Hi guys, i've been riding around in my 91 ef on D2 coilovers for quite a while, but i just cant get it to sit as low as i want to! Anyone knows what i can do? I'm open for switching to other coilovers that will go lower. I've lowered it to the max now, both the right way and the preload for the spring is not present...!


    Pic of how it sits now, on 16's with 45 profile



  • #2
    Ground Control coil sleeves on Koni Yellow shocks, with extended shock top-hats. That's how every ridiculously low Honda is getting low, excluding bags.

    I had a '91 CR-X Si on the same setup but with Tokico Blues, and I had about 1" of spring perch thread left up front, and a little over 3/4" thread left in the rear to put the front crossmember less than an inch off the ground on 16"s. I could lay that car on the pavement before I ran out of adjustment.
    - Bagged '98 Chevy S10 - Stock '88 Volvo 240DL - Broken '87 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Also Broken '87 Shelby Lancer #707/800 -

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    • #3
      Thank you very much for your fast reply! I will surely look into this

      But with the coilover sleeves, will this cause my shocks to bottom out? Bumpy roads over here in Norway so :p

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      • #4
        If you use extended top hats, you'll bottom out the chassis itself long before you max out shock travel.

        A quick thread on the extended top-hats for you to browse:



        That should get you started in the right direction. Lykke til!
        - Bagged '98 Chevy S10 - Stock '88 Volvo 240DL - Broken '87 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Also Broken '87 Shelby Lancer #707/800 -

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        • #5
          I know this is an old thread but I thought I'd chime in anyway.

          You can use aftermarket front shocks made for the 3rd generation Accord with an EF. That is, FRONT shocks and struts made for the '86-'89 Accord will bolt right up to the mounts on an EF and you can run coilover sleeves designed for the EF as well.

          Why would you do this, I hear you all ask?

          Because the shock body for this model of Accord is a full 1.25'' shorter than EF-spec shocks. This basically means you can lower the shit out of your EF and still have decent shock travel, therefore not having to worry about blowing them. If you pair Accord shocks with extended top hats, the shocks/struts will basically ride like they would stock, no sweat. This only works for the front, however. Stock-spec rear EF shock bodies are the almost identical to stock-spec front Accord shocks, so your clearance should be about equal. If you're feeling unsafe about blowing your shocks/struts, I would still recommend buying or making some top hats for both front and rear.


          LOW & SLOW ED7 DAILY DRIVER BUILD

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          • #6
            Ahh yes, the old 3Geez method. For the rear you can use EF RT4WD wagon struts, they're 2" shorter than normal EFs.

            It may be a viable option only if you're able to find aftermarket struts/shocks for the Accord or 4WD Civic. I've found them tough to find in the Southwest, but in Europe it may be a different deal, as the 4WD Hondas are much more popular there.
            - Bagged '98 Chevy S10 - Stock '88 Volvo 240DL - Broken '87 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Also Broken '87 Shelby Lancer #707/800 -

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            • #7
              Buy Stance GR+ Coilovers and mod them to fit your ride, can go stupid low with them

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              • #8
                Tokico blues, ground controls, extended top hats.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Daviticus View Post
                  Ground Control coil sleeves on Koni Yellow shocks, with extended shock top-hats. That's how every ridiculously low Honda is getting low, excluding bags.

                  I had a '91 CR-X Si on the same setup but with Tokico Blues, and I had about 1" of spring perch thread left up front, and a little over 3/4" thread left in the rear to put the front crossmember less than an inch off the ground on 16"s. I could lay that car on the pavement before I ran out of adjustment.
                  Now that I'm constructing my own suspension setup for my ed7, I came back to ask:

                  Is this with Tokico Hps/blues and the OTS ground control sleeves? I've got all of that (3geez up front), plus extended top hats all around, and I'm trying to get as low as possible. I haven't heard of many people using that setup so I'm naturally curious. Any pics, too?


                  LOW & SLOW ED7 DAILY DRIVER BUILD

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by EF303 View Post
                    Now that I'm constructing my own suspension setup for my ed7, I came back to ask:

                    Is this with Tokico Hps/blues and the OTS ground control sleeves? I've got all of that (3geez up front), plus extended top hats all around, and I'm trying to get as low as possible. I haven't heard of many people using that setup so I'm naturally curious. Any pics, too?
                    I don't have any pics of the setup, sorry. It was tossed together with stuff I had laying around in a bit of a hurry. Once you get all the parts together though, it becomes pretty self-explanatory. The most complex part is the extended top-hat, and thats' if you're building them yourself.
                    - Bagged '98 Chevy S10 - Stock '88 Volvo 240DL - Broken '87 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Also Broken '87 Shelby Lancer #707/800 -

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                    • #11
                      A little bit of Googling led me to this topic:

                      Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991) - How to install Ground Controls with Koni Yellows in a 88-91 CRX - Well here is my update that is going to double as a how to on the installation and building of Koni Sports (Yellows) and Ground Controls with and without aftermarket top hats... This is my first attempt at a write up...


                      All that information will transfer right over to an HPS/Blues setup, the spring perches on the shocks are the only things different [an actual perch on the Tokicos versus the groove and snap ring on the Koni - everything functions the same].
                      - Bagged '98 Chevy S10 - Stock '88 Volvo 240DL - Broken '87 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Also Broken '87 Shelby Lancer #707/800 -

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                      • #12
                        do not get anything else but koni/gc. if you are looking for a maximum slamming setup get koni/ground control with extended top hats and possibly cut your uca towers to allow more travel.
                        sigpic
                        1988 E28 535is

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                        • #13
                          I agree, if you're going to do it, go Koni. I used what I had and it worked well, but my CR-X also tipped the scales at 1800lbs, so heavy damping and spring rates weren't necessary. The Blues are still on it with the new owner and ride great.
                          - Bagged '98 Chevy S10 - Stock '88 Volvo 240DL - Broken '87 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Also Broken '87 Shelby Lancer #707/800 -

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Daviticus View Post
                            I don't have any pics of the setup, sorry. It was tossed together with stuff I had laying around in a bit of a hurry. Once you get all the parts together though, it becomes pretty self-explanatory. The most complex part is the extended top-hat, and thats' if you're building them yourself.
                            Originally posted by Daviticus View Post
                            A little bit of Googling led me to this topic:

                            Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991) - How to install Ground Controls with Koni Yellows in a 88-91 CRX - Well here is my update that is going to double as a how to on the installation and building of Koni Sports (Yellows) and Ground Controls with and without aftermarket top hats... This is my first attempt at a write up...


                            All that information will transfer right over to an HPS/Blues setup, the spring perches on the shocks are the only things different [an actual perch on the Tokicos versus the groove and snap ring on the Koni - everything functions the same].
                            Yeah, no I get how it goes together and all, that's not the issue. I was just asking about just how freaking low you can get with this setup. Like OP, I'm looking for maximum low but I've never done this before so I'm not sure what to expect, and/or what tips and tricks I can use to get my ED7 closer to Earth. Check my build thread, you'll see the entire suspension setup that I've pieced together (HPs, off-the-shelf GC sleeves, extended tophats). I've been Googling my butt off, but I was just fishing for feedback is all


                            LOW & SLOW ED7 DAILY DRIVER BUILD

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