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  • #61
    Originally posted by chris432 View Post
    glad to see you are back!
    <3

    Originally posted by SebastienPeek View Post
    Glad to see after all the trial and error you got it fitting pretty damn well, also very nice of you to point out everything you did to make it fit, I really do hope other people find that post and do similar things, because we need more of those hoods on r34's.

    Also, this picture



    Made my entire day.
    Thanks man, I've got about a million more pics of the entire process that went into that bonnet.

    Also, you appear to be my kinda man.

    Originally posted by becausephilchow View Post
    Amazing, so jealous you have the ability to be able to fix FRP pieces like that.

    I would've kept my C63 if the Widebody kit had fit even remotely properly.
    Thanks I appreciate it, but I must truthfully say that I pretty much winged it all the way, I had to do and redo multiple times and I'm sure there are plenty of things that could've been sorted out better.

    I'm just trying to do my best and try to learn.

    Because.. there might be a second R34 coming real soon! Tom is tryna sell his X100 so we can pick up another R34 which I'll be taking to build up and he'll be taking this one.


    Anyway, while I have you people here - I could use some advice.

    I've been trying to get a brushed sort of finish on my discs with various dremel brushes but have not been very successful as they barely made a difference.



    In case you've been wondering what that rocket fuel is on the right side in the picture:



    It's Costco Margarita that I've been running on all summer long. It helped.


    Either way, back to brushing wheels; it seems the brushes I've been using are too soft and while the disc is made out of 6082-t6 billet I'm way too candy ass to attack it with metal brushes.

    I've seen pros on IG getting wonderful hand brushed finishes done but they're rather conservative with the information they hand out.

    For example like this one:



    I'll take any advice to be had.

    Comment


    • #62
      I believe people use a ridiculously low grade of sandpaper like 40-60 grit, I'm pretty sure its how they do the stainless brushed look on the Deloreans. Worth looking that up. I could be wrong though, in which case I apologise in advance

      Comment


      • #63
        If you want any sort of brushed look, you are going to have to step up to some sort of metal brush or more aggressive grit of sandpaper/sanding wheel. You have to use the more abrasive materials to get the bite into the metal, and then the consistency of the pattern comes by virtue of using a tool with a consistent action (like your Dremel, or a drill or orbital sander). I did brushed faces on the spokes of some 350Z anniversary wheels using an orbital sander and 120-grit sandpaper discs, basically using mostly one side of the orbital wheel to get a bit of a radial brushing pattern that matched the outer diameter of the wheels.

        350z rims by Steve Hayward, on Flickr

        I know it's not exactly the finish you're after, but that gives some reference to what you get from 120-grit paper. The brushing finish you posted definitely looks like some sort of small-wire brush tool was used.

        Here's my thread on the wheel work I did.
        Thought people might be interested to see the results of this year's wheel refinishing efforts. I bought a set of 350z wheels from McGuyver who originally planned to have them refinished, but then found a mint set so sold these on. They came with a fair bit of road rash, of which 90% was on the flat faces and lips, so I figured that I could easily sand them down and leave a machined or polished finish. Here's some of the original damage (this example wheel was the worst):
        Steve - now in San Diego!

        Shoot My Car - Automotive Photography in SoCal

        Comment


        • #64
          Originally posted by screescree View Post
          I believe people use a ridiculously low grade of sandpaper like 40-60 grit, I'm pretty sure its how they do the stainless brushed look on the Deloreans. Worth looking that up. I could be wrong though, in which case I apologise in advance
          Thanks man, I appreciate the tip, I think I'll just have to get a scrap billet piece and run some tests.

          Originally posted by Aitch View Post
          If you want any sort of brushed look, you are going to have to step up to some sort of metal brush or more aggressive grit of sandpaper/sanding wheel. You have to use the more abrasive materials to get the bite into the metal, and then the consistency of the pattern comes by virtue of using a tool with a consistent action (like your Dremel, or a drill or orbital sander). I did brushed faces on the spokes of some 350Z anniversary wheels using an orbital sander and 120-grit sandpaper discs, basically using mostly one side of the orbital wheel to get a bit of a radial brushing pattern that matched the outer diameter of the wheels.

          350z rims by Steve Hayward, on Flickr

          I know it's not exactly the finish you're after, but that gives some reference to what you get from 120-grit paper. The brushing finish you posted definitely looks like some sort of small-wire brush tool was used.

          Here's my thread on the wheel work I did.
          http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/sh...chining-wheels
          That's excellent looking dude, I've now ordered some steel wire brushes for my dremel and hopefully those will do the trick.


          And in the spirit of no post without picture, here I tried to express what I think about that bonnet.



          Comment


          • #65
            ^ haha, I assume it's close to being binned? It's a lovely looking hood, shame its such a pain for yourself.

            Comment


            • #66
              Originally posted by screescree View Post
              ^ haha, I assume it's close to being binned? It's a lovely looking hood, shame its such a pain for yourself.
              Not a chance in hell, way too much work has gone into that to give that shit up. Gonna raptor coat the underside one of these days and then I'm moving on to the surface finish.

              Also am working on a couple of lips for under the side skirts and rear spats.



              Gonna form them out of polystyrene and then lay some glassfiber.
              Last edited by h3llk1t3; 10-02-2017, 07:35 AM.

              Comment


              • #67
                Glad to see some updates on this one, completely forgot about it.

                Sad to see the R32 sold, but I am sure the new R34 will be even better.
                Insta Mintyhinrichs

                Comment


                • #68
                  try using red scotchbrite pads for the metal-grain look. if that's not enough move to medium-coarse steel wool. I say this because it's what the guys I've worked with in the past who do architectural handrail use to get the grain to come out after fabrication. it's labor intensive for sure but works well
                  conversion syndicate*

                  4g63 swapped Hilux: http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=75423

                  ig: makercruuz

                  Comment


                  • #69
                    You’re about to see a ton of bonnet pictures.

                    Ready?

                    Carbon skinning:

                    The backstory here is that I’ve never carbon skinned anything in my life before and wanted to see if I can pull this off, not to mention the surface of the bonnet was complete poop.

                    I’m gonna give you the step by step rundown of what I’ve done, as well as all the things I’ve done wrong or coulda been better – at the end.

                    So, I brought the bonnet upstairs in my gaming room because it’s been raining for 2 weeks straight and cleaned it up after having had put down a primer coat and sanding it after a few minor corrections.



                    First thing when you wanna coat something with carbon is putting down an epoxy basecoat nice and evenly.



                    You let the epoxy dry for about 2 hours until it becomes super sticky and pop a sheet of 2/2 twill weave carbon fire over the top. Here is where my first mistake already happened.



                    My wife and I laid down the entire fibre sheet over the bonnet because I thought it had enough slack for us to press it down into every corner of the bonnet. Sadly this caused quite some distortion which she tried to fix by hand.



                    When the sheet is firmly sticking to the bonnet you wait for about 2 more hours to have the epoxy basecoat secure the carbon in place. That is when you followup with a heavy coat of epoxy to wet out the entire fabric.



                    As soon as it’s all wet ideally you let it dry over night at least 8 hours.



                    In general it looked rather nice even with some of the distortions visible.



                    Then it’s time to 240 grit the entire thing for the subsequent epoxy coat to stick.



                    After a quick cleanup with a damp cloth you can start heaving on the epoxy coats, the plan is to get 3 coats on top of the carbon that can be flattened later on. Here is where I mildly fucked up again.

                    First coat.



                    The thing I did wrong was mixing up too much epoxy at a time and it started to form lumps in the pot before I was able to use everything up.

                    That resulted in me being able to put on only 2 heavy coats of epoxy instead of 3 because I ran out.

                    That’s the second coat done.



                    Next day; flattening time.
                    I started to do this inside but quickly noticed it was gonna mess up everything.



                    So I popped it outside and spent the entire. fucking. day. sanding.



                    I was hungry, popped the bonnet as is on car and went for pizza.



                    I continued the following day to the point at which I was rather pleased with the result



                    Quick sponge bath.



                    Taped off the sides so I can paint the edges black.



                    As soon as the paint dried I started putting on the what I thought was gonna be the last coat of epoxy very thinly.



                    Looked sweet.



                    Even closeup.



                    As it would turn out, it’s a really shitty idea to leave epoxy to harden outside at 8 degrees over night.



                    See those white spots and shit? So ye, back to sanding everything off again.

                    Started sanding with 400 grit but was by far not aggressive enough.



                    Called it a night and went for a ride again – France finally got a Costco, I love their pizza as well.



                    Back to sanding everything flat with 240 the next day.



                    And this time around I was a smart cookie and took the bonnet inside to let the thin epoxy coat harden over night at 21°.



                    Looks the tits.

                    So, here is what should have been better:

                    - Don’t pop on the sheet entirely, press it down while rolling it off.
                    - Always mix smaller batches – on a bonnet this size it’s okay to have one coat be 3 separate batches.
                    - Have enough epoxy
                    - Don’t let it dry in the cold

                    I coulda saved a ton of time and gotten a better result if I would have done this before, but hey I’m glad how it turned out still.

                    Also, I raptor coated the underside as well so it doesn’t look all over the fucking place any more.



                    Aaand I repainted the rear spats



                    More soon.

                    Comment


                    • #70
                      Damn, hood looks good now. Always wondered how it works skinning something like that.
                      Insta Mintyhinrichs

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                      • #71
                        Awesome work man!!
                        sigpic
                        Follow Me on TikTok & IG: Eric_Thiergood

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                        • #72
                          I'm usually super proud when I apply a slap sticker straight...


                          This is insane work!
                          Instagram: @Eurow

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                          • #73
                            Damn that hood looks awesome!

                            Love your write ups, one of the very few threads that can keep my attention on this site.
                            IG: @sebastienaudeon
                            1974 Porsche 911S

                            Originally posted by TRaNz
                            *pats Sebs head*
                            there there.
                            keep calm, go mash your face on a car window.

                            Comment


                            • #74
                              Phew, miniupdate.

                              Cleaned stuff up a bit and added bits and pieces like shaded nismo indicators.



                              Also painted my wheel discs.



                              Then I was gonna get into telling you that I ordered lips and barrels and ramble on about it for 3 pages as for why I decided to go with those specific sizes, which then suddenly turned into the tire stretching guide I was meaning to write for a couple of friends. Those 3 pages turned into 7 and I decided to post it separately, feel free to give it some love: http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...e-System-Guide

                              Anyway, wheels complete soon and shit'll go down.

                              More real soon.

                              Comment


                              • #75
                                That looks sick. Props on the wet carbon overlay. Most everyone would have just vinyl wrapped it and called it a day.

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