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Thread: Polishing lips, DIY

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    upstate NY
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    Question: I have a BMW M3 polished LTW that had a primer lip on it that I removed and now I need to polish and clear coat it. I dont think the original finish is too shiny but it is polished. How would I polish it and make it match the original finish on the other rims.

    Also what clear coat should I use?

    Link: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...7#post19601717

    -Nick

  2. #52

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    hand polished as well
    My Flickr | SUN*WORKS | SUM*DONT

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Orlando
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    492

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    very useful thread! going to have mine polished in a couple months.

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    813/fla
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    15

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    good thread, after reading the other contributions, i finally signed up so I could share a few of the tips i've learned over the years. **(disclaimer: everything i'm about to tell you is wrong. but this is the internet so it must be true. use at your own risk)

    when wetsanding, i use WD-40. i buy it in the gallon jugs so i have a nifty spray bottle i use to apply. as messy as it might sound, it's really not because you use quite a bit less. WD-40 also rules for soaking the wheel nuts/bolts, a few days soak works nice, i've never been a fan a cleaning 120+ tiny ass bolts and i never got around to getting a vibratory tumbler so this method works for me.

    for the sanding stage, i got crafty and built a turntable. i used a cheap "lazy susan" turntable bearing and some plywood, a few wood scraps to hold the wheel on the turntable, then you just spin the wheel while holding the sandpaper in onespot. helps to keep the sanding marks more consistant as well as speed up the process. heres the bearing i used: http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/me...de=Woodworking
    then just get a 2'x4' peice of plywood (you can get them pre cut this size at large home improvement stores, cut it in half, use the one square piece for your base, then round off the other peice and that is the wheel platform. screw it all together, grab a marker and spin the platform and make some circles of varying diameter, this will allow you to center the wheel later when your are securing it on the turntable (use scraps for this). i'm sure with a little effort, it could be mechanized but for now, this works manually. i can sand through 320, 400w, 600w, and 800w in 10-20mins if i hurry. this whole setup cost me maybe $20.

    if you have the intial investment cash, you might want to look into getting a floor mounted buffer setup. i put together an 8" setup for around $75 (you can easily make this back if you do a polishing job for a friend). i managed to get both the buffer and stand on sale at Harbor Freight (links below) so it was decent. then an order from Caswell Plating will get you the buffing wheel and rouge needed. really, you only need one wheel to start (more is better of course). a good buffing setup will allow you to use only a black rouge and get an awesome finished product. a good setup will also decrease the amount of sanding you'll need to do. i address any rash/pits, then wetsand from 400-800, then buff it out, then i finish with Mother's (either by hand or with a powerball). if you're buffing correctly, you should be able to stop at 600wet and still buff it out to an sick shine. a nice buffing setup also allows you to get things hot. heat is a huge secret to a good polishing job. the buffing compound inherently wants to stick to the cooler of the two items, so keeping the piece hot will keep the compound on the buffing wheel and not the lip/wheel. you should also purchase a nice set of gloves to deal with the heat if you go this route.

    Caswell rules: http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/index.html

    wheels: http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/sscw.htm

    8"grinder i got on sale for $50: http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-...fer-94327.html

    stand i got for $20: http://www.harborfreight.com/bench-g...and-42986.html

    a few pics:








    lol, my old lady was pissed! haha

  5. #55

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    any suggestions from the polishing gurus? i had these wheels blasted and then went through the process of sanding them and then used mothers aluminum polish. my problem is they still have a haze to them and dont really shine like i want them to. thanks




  6. #56

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    damn you daron. need compound!


    Widebody B6 build

    HIT ME UP if you need Ksport supplies. i can get them to you cheaper than anyone.

  7. #57

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    pm me exactly what i need please, i wanna tackle this myself asap! tia

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    208

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    Im going to shoot some pics of a set of wheels im redoing now for a guy with a gs300. I took apart an old drillpress and made it bolt to the wall...Pretty much the end result will be a set up for refinishing that will cut my time and mess in half and make the quality even better.
    chUD..........Asphalt-sux

    "Success causes envy , jealousy & hatred from the un-successful !!!! "Gregg Valentino

  9. #59

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    how do i polish bolts???? or make them nicer

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Philadelphia
    Posts
    49

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    Here's some stuff I did the hard way..

    For the most part it's sand paper from 220 to 2000 then aluminum polish with a buffing wheel and a dremel with strips of different sand paper for the tight spots. No wet sanding or compounds.





    (This pan is stamped steel.. fml)





    Polishing stuff is heartbreaking.. Out of all that, the master cylinder got brake fluid on it and messed up the clear powder coat. The wheels got the clear powder coat nicked and started to spiderweb oxidize under. That alt cover started to do the same. And that stample steel pan started to rust in tiny little spots under the clear. Steel is workk to polish too.

    I opted to get stuff powder coated clear since it will take heat and not yellow.. and I know I don't really feel like repolishing crap every season. So much for that.

  11. #61
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    208

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    Finished up a wheel tonight using the new method...Not bad but did i love it? No.





    camera phone pics suck i know.
    chUD..........Asphalt-sux

    "Success causes envy , jealousy & hatred from the un-successful !!!! "Gregg Valentino

  12. #62
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Perth, Scotland, London
    Posts
    7,351

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    Hey...guys i need some advice. You'll probably have a better idea than i do. How would i go about polishing these lips? I've polished stuff before, but never anything this bad.




  13. #63
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Philadelphia
    Posts
    49

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    You're probably going to have to start off with 220 grit. The wheels I posted were about as crappy to begin with.

  14. #64
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    Aug 2009
    Location
    Colorado
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    180 on a block. work up from there.
    chUD..........Asphalt-sux

    "Success causes envy , jealousy & hatred from the un-successful !!!! "Gregg Valentino

  15. #65
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Cincy
    Posts
    782

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    I do this shit that absolute hardest way, but honestly I love doing it so it's not that bad...

    I usually go 80 on the outer lip where the tire beads, just to clean up light curbage/tire install/removal dings, etc...

    Then on the rest I go 180, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1k. Then I go back over them with 400, 600, 800, 1k, 1500, 2k, 2500 all wet. I usually use mothers all metal polish for the initial polish, probably do this 10 times. Then I use 3m cutting compounds, such as extra cut, fine, and swirl mark remover. Then I use a Mother's cleaner wax, and a spray wax for the final step.

    My first set ( Sebring Zeiger 5 16x8/ +38, 16x8.5/ +32 by rays)






    I also did a set of oldschool Ansen slot mags for a customer, he didn't want a complete mirror finish, although they were damn close when I was done. Those wheels are an absolute ROUGH casting from the factory cast, and they were dated 1963 with SEMA stickers on the inside barrel. Going on a period correct 33 willys, sbc/4spd.

    I actually polished the entire wheel, lips/faces/centers...


















    We are currently in the process of mirror polishing a set of SI wheels, a few valve covers, and possibly a 6 point cage...not sure yet though.

    I'll post pics of the SI's when we are done.
    Last edited by Lt. Dangle; 11-02-2010 at 03:04 PM.

  16. #66

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    that's my work:

    http://forum.4tuning.ro/102-bursa-se...tc/page-7.html

    I'm still a beginner.

  17. #67

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    This thread is Amazing! I wish i saw thi sthread two weeks ago before i sent my wheels off to get the lips re-polished

    I need to do this!

  18. #68
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    395

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    Quote Originally Posted by ziemenz View Post
    that's my work:

    http://forum.4tuning.ro/102-bursa-se...tc/page-7.html

    I'm still a beginner.
    Wow! Nice job! Please share your technique.

  19. #69

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    Did this a short cut way.

    Bench grinder + de-burring/finishing wheel, then polished with black (1000 grit) compound with polishing pad on bench grinder. Have yet to finish with finer compounds..

    What do you guys think for only a 2 stage, no sanding, polishing?


  20. #70
    firelizard Guest

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    Very good result for such a quick process. How much time did you spend with the black compound?

  21. #71

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    i could have gotten away with one pass, however there were a couple of spots I wanted to knock down a bit, so I had to go over it twice, but I dont think that added any depth or shine.

    One pass with the black would take me approximately 5 minutes? I will hit it with the grey, white, and green sticks, I just need more pads.

    Here's a comparison photo to see what they look like before work gets done to them. I think I will make a build thread as I refinish my Super RS'


  22. #72
    firelizard Guest

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    The one thing that stands out in the comparison, aside from the finish, is that the edges are very rounded after. Is that something that could have been reduced (if you were inclined to do so) with a less rapid approach?

  23. #73
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Transylvania, Europe
    Posts
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    Hey guys, I have DIY refurbed and polished my wheels too, the lips came out pretty good, but the mops I have are not that wide and I can't really polish the faces with them, they come out spoty because of the very little surface contact, could you guys give me some advice on what to use to polish flat surfaces? Oh and pls don't suggest expensive machinery because I'm on a budget.





    The kit i used:







    Before:







    During:











    After: (kinda)




    sorry for picture quality...
    Last edited by Joker; 12-06-2010 at 05:25 PM.

  24. #74

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    Quote Originally Posted by firelizard View Post
    The one thing that stands out in the comparison, aside from the finish, is that the edges are very rounded after. Is that something that could have been reduced (if you were inclined to do so) with a less rapid approach?
    In real life, there is very little difference by touch. The difference of finish on the OE cap makes it appear to have a more rigid line due to the contrasting finishes used for sides/top. It did round the edges a bit, but I dont imagine sanding by hand would have different results..

    Nice polish job on those wheels ^^ that skinny wheel is similar to what I am using.. How do you find the thicker wheel? Easier for lips?

  25. #75
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Transylvania, Europe
    Posts
    135

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    Quote Originally Posted by C.Johnston View Post
    Nice polish job on those wheels ^^ that skinny wheel is similar to what I am using.. How do you find the thicker wheel? Easier for lips?
    If u are reffering to me I used them both on the lips, the wide one fits right on the sloped part so that was great, however the wider wheel leaves a lot of black residue, which I **** cleaning off the most, it requires more time than polishing itself Some tips how to avoid heavy residue? Tryed less compound, but it won't come out as shiny.

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