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Thread: The Fabrication/Welding Thread

  1. #151

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    Been lurking on this thread for a while now thought I'd introduce myself in here since its where I'll be most lol.

    Names Rudy and I dig fab work

    Some of my work:

    One-off bumpers, winch tub, roof rack, tire gate and ladder on this xterra




    GTS/SP996 cages


    International Scout bolt in cage



    and some sick machine work i had done on my own project!

    Last edited by gazolorean; 11-20-2015 at 01:54 AM.

  2. #152
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
    Posts
    216

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    First real welds I've done (other than a few practice lines). I'm currently running flux wire using a Mastercraft Mig and Flux Welder. Any comments? I did stop in between the 2 left welds.


  3. #153
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Kensington, CA
    Posts
    179

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    Not too shabby bud, although looks a little cold. You can prolly run a little hotter and faster, especially on that 1/4" steel. See how high the weld has built up? Maybe try 5-10 more amps and moving at a faster travel speed. If they're still building up a lot you can turn the wire feed a little slower. Most importantly tho, KEEP WELDING! Don't just go out and do 10 mins of welding and call it a day, try to repeat your process of the better welds once you make them, it'll help you retain better habits/form
    conversion syndicate*

    4g63 swapped Hilux: http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=75423

    ig: makercruuz

  4. #154
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Louisville, KY
    Posts
    33

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    I picked up some eBay BMW stainless headers from a friend to put on my Mercedes. I'm sure the stainless is inferior since they are already rusting. This is more or less a trial run to see how they fit and work. Can I cut the cast flange off of my manifolds to weld to the stainless? My other option is buy a flange from Australia at $118 shipped. It's mild steel.

  5. #155

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    I made a tow hook and oil checking step for my 79 K10. the step is mounted to the push bar and the hook is bolted to the frame

    the hook was cut out of a piece of scrap i had. it is about 3/4" thick and my Hypertherm 30xp isnt even rated to cut that much so im lucky i got it as smooth as i did. its very hard to trim little bits off like that so its not perfectly shaped.







    i made the step out of a scrap bracket and what im guessing is a section of track for a machine of some sort. we have the same track on the floor for the machines to open up on at my work.












  6. #156
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    London, ON
    Posts
    135

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    That step is actually really cool looking! Nice work!

  7. #157

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    thanks dude

  8. #158
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    In the woods
    Posts
    890

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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg View Post
    I picked up some eBay BMW stainless headers from a friend to put on my Mercedes. I'm sure the stainless is inferior since they are already rusting. This is more or less a trial run to see how they fit and work. Can I cut the cast flange off of my manifolds to weld to the stainless? My other option is buy a flange from Australia at $118 shipped. It's mild steel.
    You can most definitely do so but be careful; ebay stainless tends to be very thin and welds pretty poorly with a MIG (as does all stainless). Blow-through is easy if you're not paying attention.

    I would also suggest grabbing an exhaust manifold from the junkyard so you aren't cutting up your only good one for a flange.

    Instagram: surpriseitsmicah

    Builds:

  9. #159

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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg View Post
    I picked up some eBay BMW stainless headers from a friend to put on my Mercedes. I'm sure the stainless is inferior since they are already rusting. This is more or less a trial run to see how they fit and work. Can I cut the cast flange off of my manifolds to weld to the stainless? My other option is buy a flange from Australia at $118 shipped. It's mild steel.
    No idea if it's still relevant or what benz you have. But if its a 124ish era, and a v24 motor like 300-24/320/280 or even maybe a 300 v12, you can search local junkyards or ebay for a set of later stainless manifolds. as they have a fat flange that can be used for that.


    Edit: that custom step is da bomb

  10. #160
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Laguna Beach,CA Glendale, AZ Soon to be Boston
    Posts
    1,018

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    Greg I really hope you end up fitting BMW headers on the m103, if you do I'll pay you to make a second set!


    Quote Originally Posted by Stupid Kid View Post
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  11. #161

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  13. #163

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  14. #164

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    Check the side of the machine to see what your settings need to be for the thickness of the metal you are using. On the pic about, looks like you are going to fast or your speed it to high. You want to move your weld from side to side and watch the melting puddle. Like a half moon. )/)/)/)/)/)/)/)/)/)/)/)/) Like that, kinda. Are you welding with Flux? No gas? If you are, get some gas... Makes a world of difference!

    Here's what I mean... This is also a bad cleaning job, but you get the idea.
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  15. #165
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Seney, MI
    Posts
    39

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    this thread is an UTTER DISASTER.

  16. #166

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    Quote Originally Posted by fifty3bags View Post
    Great idea for a thread. I've always wanted to learn to weld, but I wouldn't know where to start (and I don't have the space right now). For a starter, what would be the best type of welder/accessories needed to get started doing basic welding tasks and something to build off of. By basic welding tasks I mean things like exhaust, tool carts, etc.
    Hello everyone,,
    You would want a MIG (metal inert gas) for that type of stuff. They're the simplest to use and setup, and they're much cheaper than a TIG (tungsten inert gas).

    If you're really just looking for the cheapest way to stick things together, harbor freight is the place to look. You can pick up a 110v MIG welder for like $150, some flux core wire, some gloves and a helmet and get started right away youporn.wiki/ xhamster.vip/ redtube.onl/. This setup welds about as good as the price is expensive, but it's a good cheap way to start and see if you really want to learn.

    The next step up (new still) is a cheap 110v Miller/Lincoln/Hobart for about $800-$1000 and a tank of gas (small rental tanks are available for about $50). I have a Millermatic 140 MIG that I have used for tons of things from thin bodywork to 1/4" metal and it always works great. The duty cycle isn't very high and it's only 110v so you can't weld thick stuff for very long, but for the home hobbyist it's a great setup. All the popular welder brands will have something close to the Millermatic, they're all very similar so it's really just brand preference.

    You can get used welders for very cheap as well. Craigslist is great to find deals, although it can be intimidating if you don't know exactly what you're looking for.

    As for accessories, all you really need is a good helmet (don't skimp out, a good helmet is 100% worth the extra cost) and some welding gloves. You don't really need the gloves, but your body will thank you in the long run if you use them. You can get by without hammers and pics and brushes.....
    Last edited by Gabrial; 06-10-2019 at 11:50 AM.

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