Perhaps a shot in the dark...but still worth a shot

[silvrbreez]

Does anyone here happen to have any of these bolts they'd be willing to part with?

I'm in search of some stainless M6 12-point flange bolts for reassembling my SSR made 18" Koenig Specials. I was able to retained, refurbish, and reuse 118 of the original 120 bolts. One has stripped threads that could likely be repaired with a die, but the other was overtorqued and sheared in the reassembly process. The bolts I've got have the small spherical indention in the top of the cap.

I've contacted several reputable wheel restoration guys (Memory Fab, Rotiform, Independent Wheel, etc.) with no luck. I've also checked the typical online fastener houses (McMaster Car, Allen's Fasteners, Bolt Depot, Pertsch & Partner, etc.) with no luck. I've visited local industrial fastener suppliers as well, but guess what...no luck.

What makes these unique is not just the fact that they are M6 12pt flanged in stainless, but they also have a washer face on the back of the flange. I think my only option may be to replicate these or cannibalize another set of well kept OG Koenig Specials...but those are few and far between.

Photos of the bolt in question are below...


Untitled by Brandon Bergeron, on Flickr


Untitled by Brandon Bergeron, on Flickr


Untitled by Brandon Bergeron, on Flickr


Untitled by Brandon Bergeron, on Flickr

Any help you can provide is much appreciated it.

[Mike36]

I might have these. I might have some to spare.

[silvrbreez]

I might have these. I might have some to spare.

That would be awesome! Keep me posted.

[zoo]

So, M6 12pt flanged 25MM UHL.
Would these not work? http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/770-10...ductId=1635462

[silvrbreez]

Like I mentioned in my post, I'm really just trying to replace one or two of them. Those would work great, but they don't match. My current bolts have an impression in the head of the bolt. Options open up tremendously if I wanted to replace all 120 of the bolts. I was considering going with ARP in the beginning, but these were in such good condition I just decided to reuse them. Replacing 1 out of 120 with that bolt would just (to me anyway) be more noticeable of a difference than I'd want.

[zoo]

Ok, I see. If you cant source a replacement, you could machine/drill the top of the bolt to match yours.

[silvrbreez]

Ok, I see. If you cant source a replacement, you could machine/drill the top of the bolt to match yours.

Now that's an idea. Hmm... Wonder what a capable machine shop would charge for that?

[zoo]

Now that's an idea. Hmm... Wonder what a capable machine shop would charge for that?

$5? Or DIY, drill press and vise.
I may have a couple of those ARP's. I'll post in this thread later.

***Mine are 20mm UHL.

[silvrbreez]

$5? Or DIY, drill press and vise.
I may have a couple of those ARP's. I'll post in this thread later.

***Mine are 20mm UHL.

Thanks for checking man. Ends up I may have a lead on something from the guys at Rotiform and/or Wheelflip.

[KyleAnderson]

you could machine/drill the top of the bolt to match yours.

Beat me to it. Grind flat and hit it with a ball nose end mill. Easy and inexpensive.

[Crankey]

if you have the sheered head you could weld on a new threaded shank. I don't know if I would torque it all the way though.
I'd consider that if I were in your spot. tig weld and clean up with a file. it'd take less than a 1/2 hr to do 2.

[silvrbreez]

Thanks Crankey. I'd considered that but the shear is actually in the threaded body. I could rethread it with a die, but I wasn't sure I could keep the bolt aligned straight during welding and I'm pretty sure the torque would be reduced like you mentioned.

I've got a few zinc coated BBS bolts that should be arriving today. We'll see how they compare and how noticeably different they are. Might just run those and eventually go with all new ARP stainless replacement hardware.

[Crankey]

you can use a section of another threaded bolt shaft to keep threads aligned, tac weld, then full weld. then clean up with a file and run a die nut.
or if you can get a metric coupling nut and cut it in half on a band saw...then lay the bolts in the nut and weld.

the zinc bolts will be steel and not stainless I'd guess.

one bolt per wheel with under spec torque wouldn't be the end of the world I'd think. but miss matched bolt heads would be annoying to me too.

I bought a set of new SS bolts from Tunershop for my RF's and...I dunno, they don't look the same. the flange is slightly larger and they don't have the BBS raised letters. it bugs me. just another reason to procrastinate on wheel assembly.

[silvrbreez]

Yeah. I'm certain my perfectionism will come out and I'll end up replacing all the bolts with new ARP stainless bolts for consistency. We'll see how these BBS zinc coated steel bolts with the raised letters and dimpled head compare to the OG SSR stainless bolts with no letters and dimpled head. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I'm the only one who'll notice, BUT the fact that I'll still notice will likely be enough for me to want to replace them all.

[Crankey]

yeah...ultimatly I buy wheels to satisfy myself...so it's too bad I don't get to see em rolling me around much. but you will be the only guy that knows or cares. that's enough reason to make them right, whatever that may be.