Love the pan chop job, really nice welds on cast aluminum
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Atom's 2 door Amazon wagon Project:Headquarters
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Ok, so here’s the table for cutting. I used two thick a$$ plates of aluminum with a lazy Susan bearing between them, put it on some slides with a chunk of allthread (I know it technically should be acme thread, but I’m using scraps) with some nuts welded to the end for adjusting. I welded some C channel uprights and made a fixture to bolt to my angle grinder using the spots where the handles go. That bracket isn’t really square, so my plan was to c-clamp it in place and adjust until I got it to the desired height and level with the table then drill for bolts to “pin” it at that height. Seemed to work alright.
Then on to the cutting. I started by just making a “contact” ring most of the way around so I could be sure that as I cut deeper I could verify the disk wasn’t deflecting or diving. Then I cut through in most spots, leaving a few areas NOT cut all the way through so it wouldn’t pinch the wheel. Then I laid the trans on its side and finished off the last bits.
The rings line up pretty good. I’m going to make a few mounts so I can stand my block on it’s nose, bolt the 960 bellhousing ring in place then put the trans section on and start welding. I plan on putting “straps” of aluminum across the weld to help tie everything together. We’ll see.
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So, while sticking the two together, I was a little worried about alignment knowing that the trans input shaft has a bit of slop. I took two precautions. I made a sleeve of thin aluminum that I put around the splined portion of the input shaft and slid it into the throw out guide sleeve and I made basically an extra thick pilot bearing sized block of aluminum hoping that having more engagement on the output shaft would help align things. Then I put everything together and started with some sturdy tacks, then longer welds, then all the way around (where they meet at the moment) and lastly added the “straps”. I’m going to let that sit over the weekend and weld the inside next week. Then before I assemble anything for good, I’m going to take a scrap plate of aluminum and make a fixture so if I need to duplicate this down the road, I don’t need a spare engine laying around.
I’m also going to make some filler plates to cover the gaps between the two.
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Couple of pics with the pan on too.
Once I’m for sure done welding stuff up, I’ll make the trans and pan match the engine.
I’m pretty sure I can get by with the rear sump pan if I make a few modifications to the front crossmember and flop sides on the sway bar.
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PCV spacer/Oil filter blockoff/Motor mount plate (future)/Alternator adapter (future). Only got one side done. The second side should be much easier since there’s no PCV in the way.
Stoked to test fit things this weekend. Not stoked to do it in the rain (as usual).
Modified crossmember (still need to add some bracing, but want to check fitment first.
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Originally posted by MikeyRa View PostThis is an amazing display of fab work!
On a side note, one of my other hobbies is about to show itself, what wrist watch are you wearing?
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Originally posted by MikeyRa View PostAhhh a Fiddy! Very nice watch!
My daily rotation consists of Orients, Lorier, Casio, Citizen, AndroidWear etc.
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Well, sits a little tight to the firewall. The trans mount and driveshaft are adjustable though, so I’ll probably slide it forward just a hair. The good news is the modified crossmember clears the 960 pan without having to cut into the sump any more. Sway bar might be tough. I made a fixture to locate where it ends in stock configuration, so I’ll flip it and see where it lands on the front of the pan.
Anywho...
Plenty of room to the core support
Overall height comparison (without the top half of the Volvo intake
Maybe it’ll transfer some weight back??
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