Its official, im confused... (bag over coilovers)

[aar0n.]

Pretty much anything I was gonna say about bag over coils was posted already

There's a fine balance between getting the car as low as possible when all the way down and having a decent ride and decent lift, along with wheel clearance. On my setup, I have Universal Air Aerosport bags over B&G coilovers and with the bags fully inflated I get about a 2.5 to 3 finger gap with a driving PSI of around 49psi up front which is zero finger gap. The ride is pretty nice at that level but not as comfortable as it was before I spun the bags down 1/4" a couple months ago, at which point the driving PSI was around 42psi and max lift was a little more than a 3 finger gap

[wheelfetish]

Thanks guys, I now have a clear understand of the concept.

[mpv]

k sports are cheap kits, you will have problems with collars blowing out and then good luck getting them fixed. I have been building air suspensions for over 4 years now I do this as a hobby/ 2nd job. Ive posted in a nother thread about ba overs but I will help ou here as well.

here is what a bag over looks like on coils



As previously mentioned the more air in the bag the bouncier the ride is going to be. Which is why you always want to use the smallest diameter bag you can to get more lift for less air.

I am a big fan of the bag overs as they give you a great ride for a fraction of what other compaines charge for their complete systems which either dont go low or have issues with reliability imo.

If you need parts or want to talk about building a system shhot me an email oemplush@gmail and I can answer any of your questions or get you prices on the components you would need

[mpv]

also since no one has really chimmed in here is what you will need and cost ranges depending on the quality/ functions you want

-front bags(2)
-rear bags(2)
-manifold/ valves ( 2 way or 4 way depending on if you want fb or fbss sysem) I recommend 4 so you dont have air shift when cornering
-compressor
-tank
-water trap
-pressure switch(usually comes with compressor)
-relay(again usually comes with compressor)
-switches( can use switch box/controller or buy 3 way toggle switches from electical dpartment at most hardware stores) I recommend the box
-gauges( 1-2 analog depending on fb or fbss or 1 digital)
-fittings
-air line( wouldnt use larger than 3/8")

This is pretty much everything you would need, possibly brackets depending on the setup, I would also use leader lines from the front bags instead of running lines all the way up to the bag. You will also need electrical connections and wiring to wire everything in.

[balleur]

how much would a setup like what was metioned above run?

[aar0n.]

Around $1600-1800 depending on type of compressors and other components. Digital management will be more

[NELSON09]

So you roll 0psi and just inflate when need be?

[aar0n.]

So you roll 0psi and just inflate when need be?

Never seen anyone do any real driving at 0psi. For me, at 0psi my front tire sidewalls are sitting up against the fender so I can roll the car a bit but it wrecks my inner fenders and it's utterly impossible to drive as I can't turn the wheel at all without denting my fenders and my lip sits on the ground. At around 37psi my rear fenders are sitting on tires.

[Rally]

So you roll 0psi and just inflate when need be?

Haha that would be awful. The pressure also plays a part as the spring rate. 0-psi would be zero spring rate and zero travel. You'd blow your struts after 15 miles of driving like that.

You park at 0-psi, cruise around at 30-50psi, and lift it to 80psi if you think you need it for obstacles

[mpv]

Around $1600-1800 depending on type of compressors and other components. Digital management will be more

not quite everything listed with analog gauges and 5 switch eai switch box i can do for around 1200-1300 plus shipping if you want digital management then I can get you in around 1700-1800.

for the 1200-1300 here is what I can get you

2 universal air strut over bags
2 slam specialties re5's or universal air airhouse 2's
1 viair 380 compressor
1 4 gallon aluminium tank ( can do 3 gallon or 5 gallon not much difference $)
1 4 way manifold for fbss
2 viair dual needle gauges ( choice of white or black face)
50 feet of 3/8" dot air lines
50 feet of 1/4" dot air lines
1 eai 5 switch chrome switch box
1 viair pressure switch
1 viair relay switch
all necesasry fittings ( push connect )
1 water trap

[NELSON09]

Never seen anyone do any real driving at 0psi. For me, at 0psi my front tire sidewalls are sitting up against the fender so I can roll the car a bit but it wrecks my inner fenders and it's utterly impossible to drive as I can't turn the wheel at all without denting my fenders and my lip sits on the ground. At around 37psi my rear fenders are sitting on tires.

Haha that would be awful. The pressure also plays a part as the spring rate. 0-psi would be zero spring rate and zero travel. You'd blow your struts after 15 miles of driving like that.

You park at 0-psi, cruise around at 30-50psi, and lift it to 80psi if you think you need it for obstacles

Thanks fellas, I'm all with laying frame (or jackstand pluggs in my case) when parked, but what's drive height like - in terms of tire tuck? Also, what happens when you blow a bag? I'm kinda leaning twards hydros but this set up sounded like a good alternative. I guess it could go one way or the other, ooor I'm just that confused...also a friend of mine concaulkted an idea similar, only instead of air it was w/ juice. Again, I'm all for rolling as low as possible (and not just in a straight line) and parking even lowerer, just trying to wrap may brain around it.

[J.Owen]

the ride height is related to the size of the bag and the amount of pressure in the bag. The key is to find a bag size/ height that has a decent pressure (usually 30-50 psi) when the car is at your desired ride height.

If you move the bag lower, its going to take more pressure to get the car back to driving height. If you have the bag heigher, it will not sit as low at 0psi, but will take less pressure to get to your driving height.

The biggest mistake some people make is they put the bag (aerosports) in and wind their coils all the way down. It then take 70+ psi just to get them back to a driving height. The bags are then rock solid and the car feels horrible to drive. You need to find the compromise.

[NELSON09]

the ride height is related to the size of the bag and the amount of pressure in the bag. The key is to find a bag size/ height that has a decent pressure (usually 30-50 psi) when the car is at your desired ride height.

If you move the bag lower, its going to take more pressure to get the car back to driving height. If you have the bag heigher, it will not sit as low at 0psi, but will take less pressure to get to your driving height.

The biggest mistake some people make is they put the bag (aerosports) in and wind their coils all the way down. It then take 70+ psi just to get them back to a driving height. The bags are then rock solid and the car feels horrible to drive. You need to find the compromise.

Makes sense. Thanks for the clarification Owen.

[mpv]

just to give you an idea of travel here are some pics

my normal drive heigh where i set it at for day to day driving


here it is at drive height not moving



layed out, keep in mind this is with just the font sway removed and coils have 2.5" left to be turned down so i can get it on the ground


here is all the way up as you can see tons of travel

[kramerbuccs24]

^looks like little to no travel in the front but plenty in the rear. is that just the pictures or is it like that in real life?