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Thread: The Roundie - 1973 BMW 2002

  1. #151
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Sofia, Bulgaria
    Posts
    190

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    Quote Originally Posted by bwwaaaa View Post
    As is I will probably have to put on some beefy casters to make sure it can roll onto a flatbed easily. My plan was to build two cross bars that bolt into the stock subframe locations, and then a fairly simple square tube frame cart that connects the front and rear.
    That's what I did minus the frame that connected them both. Just made sure the tube between mounting point and caster wheel was thick and sturdy. In the end the wheels failed, but that's because I cheaped out. One thing to point out is I used old crossmembers, not sure how available are those for '02s
    But you can always get creative with some thick metal and some 2x4s and mimic the stock crossmembers.
    Heightwise I went about 14 inches or so of tube plus the wheels, which gave me enough clearance to crawl under the car and be able to use my hands without awkward positions. My end result looked like this.



    Hope this helps you.
    Very happy to see you got your car back and looking forward to see how this project unfolds.
    "You could roll an E30 in a BMW showroom today and people would think:
    Well, they finally got the 1 series right!"

    3.0 L e30 ground up build

  2. #152

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    Quote Originally Posted by hinrichs View Post
    Glad to see the car is back home again. How much of the underside do you plan on working on? I would say if you can swing it size wise, I would try and make a rotisserie for the car. using the frame horn ends is what I have seen most of the times before. Some of those were made with plywood on a simple angle to get the car to its one side. Either way just make sure whatever you design is easy enough to work around with getting a jack under the car to be able to remove it when needed.
    I need to route brake and fuel lines, which I suppose I should really just do before putting the body on the cart. Beyond that I was hoping to get the underside blasted as well to exposed anymore rust that needs to be handled. Iíd love to do a rotisserie but I simply donít have the space in my garage. If I attach it at the frame horns, it adds another 6 feet of length that I donít have. If I build a cage around it, Iíd have to rotate the car in place somehow. Itís not an ideal situation unfortunately. Thatís why a static cart was my leading option, it may not be as handy but I would be able to fit it in my garage space.

    Quote Originally Posted by DawsonLiri View Post
    So glad is back!
    What is that 20% you need to finish?
    Pretty much all transmission tunnel related. I have a chassis mount shifter I need to figure out how to mount, and I suspect I will be redoing the entire trans tunnel as well. The current one is a little messed up.

    Quote Originally Posted by gnmzl View Post
    That's what I did minus the frame that connected them both. Just made sure the tube between mounting point and caster wheel was thick and sturdy. In the end the wheels failed, but that's because I cheaped out. One thing to point out is I used old crossmembers, not sure how available are those for '02s
    But you can always get creative with some thick metal and some 2x4s and mimic the stock crossmembers.
    Heightwise I went about 14 inches or so of tube plus the wheels, which gave me enough clearance to crawl under the car and be able to use my hands without awkward positions. My end result looked like this.

    Hope this helps you.
    Very happy to see you got your car back and looking forward to see how this project unfolds.
    This helps a ton thank you! I had similar dimensions in mind, was planning to build off the subframe mounts so itís great to hear that works! Unfortunately subframes arenít the easiest to come by for a 2002. Thereís a front one for sale right now for nearly $300, so itís hard to stomach just using that as a cart piece haha. Also good to hear on the wheels, Iím thinking of picking up some fairly heavy duty casters in order to make loading on a trailer safer. Iím concerned small wheels will get stuck in cracks and damage the cart.
    Last edited by bwwaaaa; 10-16-2019 at 10:54 AM.

  3. #153

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    There is a way to get around not having space in front/back of the car if you have some around the sides and over. Get a fabricator to roll 2 circles of 1.5" tube in which you can fit the body, then attach them to it at the subframe mounts so they fit centered to the wheel wells, then build 2 bases with 2 rollers those circles cann roll on. Just tube bender rollers may do and be readily available. I may need to sketch something to explain more but this is the way I intended to build mine before discovering I could fit a standard rotisserie in my garage

    FB: @DumbassCarCrew - IG: @fruttolo_dumbasscrew

  4. #154

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    What Was Done


    I guess now is a good opportunity to show some of the detail on what was completed.


    The inlet and outlets were chopped off a junk Mishimoto radiator and grafted on to mine. Now this radiator can accept E30 hoses. This does leave some awkward questions about how the hell the hoses will fit. As is the hoses weren’t really lining up with the crossover, these stick out a great deal more. So I’m not super pumped about that.




    Stand offs from the core support were made to mount the radiator to. I think I may need to add some bushing in this setup, as I’m worried the NVH from the poly engine and trans mounts may cause cracking.




    This photo is probably hard to figure out, but you’re looking at the driver’s side engine mount. It has been reinforced, but I think it was too little too late. I was told that the subframe was already cracked. Although he said he welded back together, I’m not sure I trust this subframe anymore. I’m debating searching for a non-cracked one and just getting that one completely reinforced and boxed in.




    The hood is also now hinged off of the core support. This is kind of a big deal I suppose, as I haven’t seen other builds do this. There are two beams up front that act as the support for the hood. Mine were cracked off at the factory welds, and frankly the weight of the hood was starting to buckle them down. Rather than try to preserve or restore those hinges, I asked if we could just build stand offs from the core support and hinge the hood off of that.

    I guess a word for those concerned. I don’t think this design would hold up long term with the stock hood. The 2002 steel hood is incredibly heavy, and on these mounts the hood can’t stand up all the way. I have always intended, and it is now becoming closer to a reality, to find a carbon fiber hood for this car. One big complaint about the M20 swap is the weight that is added up front. Yeah, fair but it isn’t that much and the gains are pretty substantial. However I always thought that if I could source a carbon fiber hood, it would more than offset the weight added. My biggest rule was no hood pins. Fortunately, if the rumor mill is correct, there is a hood in development that will use stock mounting hardware. So I had this designed with that in mind. This can’t hold the stock hood weight very well, and almost surely would break eventually. But a carbon fiber hood using stock hardware should be no big deal.

    And yes, I’ll have the hood painted, I’m not leaving exposed carbon on this car.

    I’ve been sick this week, of course, so I haven’t had a chance to start messing with the brakes. But that’s next on my list.

  5. #155

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    That has to be, by far, the weirdest engine mount I've seen to date

    FB: @DumbassCarCrew - IG: @fruttolo_dumbasscrew

  6. #156

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    Why can't I find things like this by accident?

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