Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

The Roundie - 1973 BMW 2002

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Great update. I like how you didn't skimp on the front crossmember.

    Comment


    • Great job with that reinforcement, I didn't you had to cut so much for fitting a M20.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by white out View Post
        Great update. I like how you didn't skimp on the front crossmember.
        Thanks! I figured it was definitely worth the added rigidity on the chassis.

        Originally posted by DawsonLiri View Post
        Great job with that reinforcement, I didn't you had to cut so much for fitting a M20.
        Yeah, it's wild how much has to come out for the M20. A few people have actually swapped M20s in without cutting the nose, but that means you have to do significantly more trans tunnel cutting. No matter how you do it, you're going to have to slice the car up, so may as well cut the nose up and make it easy haha.

        Comment


        • Amazing changes! Keep going on!
          By the way, what insurance company do you use for your baby? I take a look at www.cheapautoinsurance.com, but maybe you know a better one?

          Comment


          • M20 Out, Build Anxiety In

            Ever reach a point in your build where you start to wonder if it's ever going back together? This was that point for me. Totally necessary step, but kind of daunting all the same. Last weekend we pulled out the M20. We tried once before out the top of the car, and that proved to be literally impossible. The M20+G260 combo is simply too long to come out the top of the car. So we dropped it out the bottom with the subframe.


            Per usual, I just didn't take many photos. I was too busy scrambling around the car to document the sketchiness. But I can tell you, we may have gotten a little dangerous with how we did this. Step one, unbolt the subframe while connected to engine hoist. Step two, lower the engine and front subframe onto dolly and remove chain. Step three, attach chain to new front crash bar. Step four, lift the whole body up and slide engine out. The whole process took maybe an hour, and lifting the body by the new crash bar was a little nerve wracking. But, it worked flawlessly. Next time I do this, I'd really prefer to have a lift though.


            Now my fabricator can finish up some small details in the bay, and clean up a few cuts. We're also potentially looking at redoing the trans tunnel, depending on what we find as we grind away at the unsealed metal. Hopefully nothing cancerous underneath.


            I'll probably take the opportunity to clean up a few things on this M20 while it's out. I'd like to get the pulleys powdercoated, and probably replace a few seals/belts that are easy to get to while it's out. I also want to figure out a way to make the alternator nicer to look at. I'm debating buying another one, removing the casing and having that powdercoated black. It doesn't need to be polished perfection, but the dull stock one will really ruin an otherwise nice bay.

            Despite all the worry about actually ever finishing, it feels so good to work on this car. If you've seen my other build thread, I've only been wrenching on a Miata lately, and I don't particularly enjoy that. The 2002 is so simple, it makes the whole process very enjoyable. With any luck, we're in the final stretch with the fabricator and I can bring it home to finish the fun stuff.

            Comment


            • While the engine is out you could get the valve/belt covers painted and everything else cleaned up, you know you want to do it LOL
              Also main seals, worth doing once more than less

              FB: @DumbassCarCrew - IG: @fruttolo_dumbasscrew

              Comment


              • Great progress. You are at the point of no return, but it will be totally worth it at the end.
                A piece of advice - do not powdercoat the pulleys, especially the crankshaft timing pulley, the big toothed one. There is a rubber layer inside of it, to smooth out vibrations. If you powdercoat the pulley, the rubber part gets caked and the timing doesn't work correctly. Ask me how I know.
                The true and tested "degrease, scrub and rattle can" method will do you good on this one.
                Also, when I powdercoated the waterpump pulley it started rubbing slightly on the crank timing pulley and also the water pump/alternator belt started slipping because of the super glossy surface of the powder coating.
                "You could roll an E30 in a BMW showroom today and people would think:
                Well, they finally got the 1 series right!"

                3.0 L e30 ground up build

                Comment


                • Originally posted by gnmzl View Post
                  Great progress. You are at the point of no return, but it will be totally worth it at the end.
                  A piece of advice - do not powdercoat the pulleys, especially the crankshaft timing pulley, the big toothed one. There is a rubber layer inside of it, to smooth out vibrations. If you powdercoat the pulley, the rubber part gets caked and the timing doesn't work correctly. Ask me how I know.
                  The true and tested "degrease, scrub and rattle can" method will do you good on this one.
                  Also, when I powdercoated the waterpump pulley it started rubbing slightly on the crank timing pulley and also the water pump/alternator belt started slipping because of the super glossy surface of the powder coating.
                  Good call on the main pulley as I was falling for the powdercoating mistake too, thanks
                  Services pulleys, it is always best to mask the mounting surface and the channel the belt goes into in order to avoid uncentered/slipping belts issues

                  FB: @DumbassCarCrew - IG: @fruttolo_dumbasscrew

                  Comment


                  • this car is incredible. its the inspiration i needed to start mine off.

                    amazing work, wish i could have seen it when i was in the area!
                    Instagram - Benwalsh91

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Fruttolo View Post
                      While the engine is out you could get the valve/belt covers painted and everything else cleaned up, you know you want to do it LOL
                      Also main seals, worth doing once more than less
                      I did do the valve cover a while back, so I guess may as well do everything else

                      Originally posted by gnmzl View Post
                      Great progress. You are at the point of no return, but it will be totally worth it at the end.
                      A piece of advice - do not powdercoat the pulleys, especially the crankshaft timing pulley, the big toothed one. There is a rubber layer inside of it, to smooth out vibrations. If you powdercoat the pulley, the rubber part gets caked and the timing doesn't work correctly. Ask me how I know.
                      The true and tested "degrease, scrub and rattle can" method will do you good on this one.
                      Also, when I powdercoated the waterpump pulley it started rubbing slightly on the crank timing pulley and also the water pump/alternator belt started slipping because of the super glossy surface of the powder coating.
                      Noted, and thank you for the heads up! Paint it is, that's considerably cheaper anyways haha. Ultimately the pulleys are pretty hidden anyways, so as long as they aren't gross, I'll be happy with them.

                      Originally posted by Benwalsh91 View Post
                      this car is incredible. its the inspiration i needed to start mine off.

                      amazing work, wish i could have seen it when i was in the area!
                      Thank you! Next time you're in the US, you're more than welcome to come check it out

                      Comment


                      • It's Back!




                        I don't have a lot of new info to share quite yet, this weekend was busy. But the 2002 came back home. It's... about 80% done with the fabrication work I wanted done. However due to other more pressing projects, my 2002 was sent back home. It's all good, the last few items I can do myself, a perfect excuse to finally buy a welder and teach myself how to melt some metal.

                        More photos to come, but I was excited to finally have the car back in my hands. I still need to bring the engine and transmission home, as it is sitting on the shop floor. But it's all encouraging. Expect more information soon, I'm hoping to put in a few evenings of work cleaning up the car and organizing my work space to really tear this car down to an absolute bare shell.

                        Anyone have any advice building a cart to put the bare body on?

                        Comment


                        • Happy to see it!
                          I actually have advice but would need a bit more precise question, and also my first advice would be to build something that involves welding so it's something easy and thick to start with, without having to spend too much time sticking together endless boring scrap pieces that will make you lose momentum/interest

                          FB: @DumbassCarCrew - IG: @fruttolo_dumbasscrew

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Fruttolo View Post
                            Happy to see it!
                            I actually have advice but would need a bit more precise question, and also my first advice would be to build something that involves welding so it's something easy and thick to start with, without having to spend too much time sticking together endless boring scrap pieces that will make you lose momentum/interest
                            I've done some welding before, it has just been a long time. And my welds look like straight snot. But they held for whatever it was worth haha. So I'm not too worried jumping straight into the cart.

                            I guess my biggest question is about height. I'd like to be able to access the underside of the car while it is on the cart, but I'm worried about the cart being top heavy in transportation. As is I will probably have to put on some beefy casters to make sure it can roll onto a flatbed easily. My plan was to build two cross bars that bolt into the stock subframe locations, and then a fairly simple square tube frame cart that connects the front and rear. But I'm not sure if there is a ratio of width to height I should be following. Space in my garage is (painfully) limited, so I need it to be as narrow and as tall as I can safely manage. Of course those two things don't go hand in hand, so getting the exact ratio right will be fairly daunting.

                            Comment


                            • Glad to see the car is back home again. How much of the underside do you plan on working on? I would say if you can swing it size wise, I would try and make a rotisserie for the car. using the frame horn ends is what I have seen most of the times before. Some of those were made with plywood on a simple angle to get the car to its one side. Either way just make sure whatever you design is easy enough to work around with getting a jack under the car to be able to remove it when needed.
                              Insta Mintyhinrichs

                              Comment


                              • So glad is back!
                                What is that 20% you need to finish?

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X