DIY Wheel Refinishing - BBS Style 5s

[BeemerBuyer]

The specs for style 5s are pretty generic but for those that don't know the wheels are:

17x8 et20 From an E39 528i with sport package.

I plan on running 205/40/17 Falken ZE-912 UHPAS.

*As well it should be noted that to properly mate these wheels to an E36 they need hubcentric rings. The hub bore on the E39 is 74.1 and the E36 is 72.5 - just slightly smaller. The hubcentric ring just makes up for that small gap.


BBS RC090 :shifty

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3525/4021545522_2789089568_b.jpg


I started yesterday with a trip to the hardware store to get all the necessities. I bought:

A 10mm 12 point socket - to remove the bolts ($3)

A 10 inch extension - to be able to reach all the way in to the wheel ($10)

A "Nail set" *the grey one* - this is to tap out all the bolts after removing the nuts. They come in different colors, each represents a different size. The grey one is a good size. ($5)

Jasco - Paint and epoxy remover ($10)

Sand paper - 150, 220, 400, 600, 1500 grit (>$2 each)

You will also need some sort of extension for the socket, it made taking the bolts off a piece of cake. I used a random piece of pipe that fit over the end of my socket handle. You can see it in my third and fifth picture.
AND

A dead blow hammer

OR a piece of wood, I used a 4x4 block that was laying around in the yard :dunno This is for pounding on the center after taking out the bolts. Just be sure to wrap it in a towel so you don't damage your wheel.




Today I started the disassembly process:

Close up of the worst areas:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2776/4021508598_7405536418_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2539/4020746877_834737539f_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2714/4020753037_d3b98fe00f_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2648/4020778855_589e7a11ba_b.jpg


I flipped all the wheels over and sprayed them all with PB Blaster, to loosen the bolts up a little before trying to take them apart.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2695/4021485622_bb17c905e2.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2801/4020737839_03e6d20bdd_b.jpg

Then I used the pipe extension around my socket wrench to go to town on the bolts. I separated the nuts and bolts into two different jars each full of vinegar.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2459/4020787063_2f94e1e712.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2724/4020743791_c95a02ea11_b.jpg

This is the wheel with all the nuts off.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2531/4020785941_8247307f0f_b.jpg

Now that you have all the nuts off, you have to use the "nail set" to tap the bolts out. Now this may seem easier than it really is. You have to smack the bolts pretty damn hard, some come out on the first hit some take 3 or 4 hits. You will figure out your own technique on how you want to hold the nail set and at which angle you find more comfortable. I say that because I hit my thumb a few times and scratched the wheel a few times :mad This is the hardest part of taking them apart. It is very tedious work, so remember that the slower you go the less likely you will scratch, gouge or hit your wheel.

It was a pain in the ass doing the first wheel but by the time I was doing the 4th I totally had the hang of it. It gets easier as you go.



Now that you have the bolts out, flip the wheel over, get your wood block wrapped in a towel or your dead blow hammer. Place it on the center of the wheel - hit it. Now move the block to one edge (3 o'clock postion) - hit it, rotate the wheel - hit it, rotate the wheel - hit it so on and so forth.... They'll come out eventually, and like those damn bolts some come out easier than others. It took 4 or 5 hits before they came out.


http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2625/4020790543_9a4370313a_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2580/4020792627_820595abdc_b.jpg

After doing this same process to each of the 4 wheels, I sprayed them all with some degreaser and gave them a light scrub down. They were so dirty from years of road grime and PB Blaster.

This is what I was left with.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2531/4020793659_b25156a079_b.jpg

The bolts and nuts are still soaking in their jars of vinegar.

DAY #2
UPDATE:

What you will need:
Some things I list I'm just going to go ahead and assume you will have lying around.

Jasco
Paint brush
Metal container
Old rags
Any open area

I started by taking the barrels out to a very well ventilated area where I could apply the Jasco. This is to remove the clear coat from the barrels.
Note: the nuts and bolts in vinegar.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2456/4024454757_a4998505d3_b.jpg

This stuff is nasty.
Do not breathe it and DO NOT GET IT ON YOUR SKIN. Wear long sleeves and thick gloves. I accidentally let my wrist brush against one of the wheels after the Jasco was applied and even though it was dry it started burning me instantly. Just be safe, use your head.


Pour the Jasco in to a shallow metal container. I used a plastic container lined with aluminum foil, which worked just fine. Then with your paint brush, brush the Jasco on to your lips. I found that the more you use the more clear coat it eats away and the easier it is to get off.


This was my first coat, which was pretty light - but go ahead and glob it on. The more the merrier.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2520/4025209212_b9abde9e20_b.jpg

After applying it to all 4 wheels let it dry for 20 to 30 minutes. It works pretty fast. I could hear one of the wheels making a hissing noise within seconds after applying the Jasco.


I drained out my vinegar jars and took a look at the nuts and bolts.
The vinegar did a good job cleaning them up. It loosened all the grime and blue loctite was gone.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2774/4024455645_d219b6464e_b.jpg

While waiting for the Jasco to dry I wiped each bolt... Yes, individually. And put them separately in other clean jars.



30 minutes later, the lips should be dry and are ready to be wiped down.
Get your gloves and your old rag, and start wiping the lip. I found that one of three possible outcomes will occur.

1.It is easy to wipe off and your left with nice smooth bare metal.
or
2. It doesn't come off at all.
or
3. Where it sort of comes off but leaves behind a residue. :shifty

This is the first coat...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2630/4024456029_cafb60eb74_b.jpg

Second or third coat and a lot of wiping later...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2586/4025210414_e538aa7937_b.jpg

Still a lot of residue, but getting there...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2711/4025211002_c412d996c0_b.jpg

So depending on how much you can get off with the first round of Jasco, just keep doing what we did before. Apply - Wait - Rub off, Apply - Wait - Rub off... Until its all gone. It took me 4 maybe 5 different coats before I got it all off.
*Remember, as in accordance with the rest of this project, it takes a while.


Since it might take a while... What do you do with all that in between time?

Clean up your centers!
I've found that the Mr.Clean magic eraser is a wonderful tool to use. They are $2.50 for a 2 pack and happen to work great for stuff like this.

Note: The bottom left one is clean
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2664/4024459181_b50771375b_b.jpg

This
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2705/4024471571_ed28ecab21_b.jpg
To This
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2440/4025226020_d4d767689c_b.jpg


Back out side the lips are almost there, about 95% clear coat free. It takes a lot of scrubbing to get it all off.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2515/4024483527_0c9931af2e_b.jpg


Here is one of the lips all done. I haven't even started sanding yet and it looks way better with out the clear coat.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2565/4025236990_4762d84952_b.jpg

[BeemerBuyer]

SANDING!
You will need:

150, 220, 400, 600, 1500, and 2000 grit sand paper

A few hand towels

Gloves


After you have removed all of the clear coat you can prep an area for sanding. I chose a work bench, because I did not want to sit bent over the wheels the whole time I was sanding.

DISCLAIMER: I am not polishing the lips at all. I am doing something a little bit different than most people do with their style 5s. I am prepping them for paint.



Here is one wheel ready to be sanded.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2516/4042418537_3edfbe4688_b.jpg

Here is a close up of one of the nasty areas. :banghead: Seriously corroded...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2774/4043159752_7292cd804c_b.jpg

Start with 150 grit sand paper.

fold the sand paper in half and then wrapped it around a shop towel. It makes for a soft core that will mold to the shape of the wheel and is easier to hang on to.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2719/4043161142_be18ab2904_b.jpg


Note: I did use 100 grit in the corroded areas only. They really needed it to get down through to smooth metal again. Though I am going to leave it to you to choose if your wheels are in need of a thorough spot sanding like mine did.

Here is what the wheel will look like after 150 grit. Already nice and smooth. :)

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2563/4042416075_91fa68fd09_b.jpg

When sanding never go in circles, go back an forth around the lip. The back and forth motion makes a lot of sense, especially when your standing in front of your wheel getting ready to start. Its easier and it won't ruin the look your going for.

I found it effective to do half of the wheel at a time - half of the top edge - rotate - repeat
Then half of the lip it self - rotate - repeat
Then half of the bottom where the bolts attach -rotate - repeat.

Then going over the entire wheel in one continuous stroke.


Here is after round 2 - 220 grit

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2647/4043161500_a8b6c5c817_b.jpg

Ohhh so smooth and ready for paint.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2791/4042418045_f0137e7cf5_b.jpg


After I finished the lips I started cleaning the centers again. I washed them by hand in the sink. I used the Mr.Clean magic eraser again. Just as a final cleaning.
Sorry I didn't take any pics of this... but its pretty straight forward. ;)

[BeemerBuyer]

Prepping for Paint.

You will need:

Gloves

Paint / Primer / Clear Coat $45

(For lack of a better name :rolleyes) Scruff pad - Ultra Fine $1

Paper Towels

News Paper

Blue Painters Tape $3



Last week I sanded the lips, today I prepped for paint.


I started today by washing the lips really well with degreaser. This is important to do after sanding because there will be lots of metal shavings and dust left on the surface.

Obviously you don't want anything on the surface of the wheels if your planing on painting them.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2755/4059335027_bab68552a2_b.jpg

Wash and dry them completely.

First I used a cotton towel. Then I used a paper towel to really get the moisture off.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2734/4059335287_f7c7bc4740_b.jpg


Lay out your news paper in a well ventilated area and situate your wheels so they are evenly spaced apart on top of the news paper.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2506/4059337173_8d85825147_b.jpg


If you are polishing the lips, this does not pertain to you.

Here I have all my paint/primer/clear coat.

I bought my paint supplies at a local automotive paint store.

I bought:
2 cans of primer
3 cans of paint
2 cans of clear coat

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2759/4060081686_81395ae6ef_b.jpg


Start with the primer. Many thin layers are key. TAKE YOUR TIME!
Primer applied.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2431/4059337683_62c8192689_b.jpg

While the lips are drying. Move on to the centers.

I bought an ultra fine sanding scrub pad to "rough" up the centers to give the primer something extra to stick to. The scrubbing pad left some little bits behind. So I used a moist paper towel to go over each wheel again and get everything off.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2752/4060082728_096f45acbd_b.jpg

Before
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2722/4060083056_fc8b2b9f0d_b.jpg

I covered the edge of the centers with painters tape. In hind sight I don't know if it was necessary... but I thought it would better to be safe than sorry. :dunno

With a few layers of primer.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3496/4059339127_05ccdd5677_b.jpg



Paint will be next.

[BeemerBuyer]

Paint. Paint. Paint.


Last week I stopped after priming the centers and the barrels. Yesterday I began painting.

What you will need:

Well ventilated area

Painters tape

News paper

Paint :shifty

Lots of time - Do Not - DO NOT - Do not rush the painting process.



So after priming the centers and the barrels I realized that I forgot to do the center caps! So those were first on my list.

I scrubbed them with the same ultra fine pad I used on my centers. It roughed up the surface just a little bit for the first layer of primer to stick to.

Here they are after scrubbing.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2593/4084768447_bfe23542ac_b.jpg

After a few light layers of primer I let them sit.



Meanwhile, I began actually painting the barrels. Again, you want to do many, slowly applied, light layers of paint. Wait even just few minutes between coats, then hit them again. Im not going to post any exact number of coats that are necessary because I don't know. Everyone will have their own idea of how much is needed.

I used a lot of paint, others may use more, others may use less... You be the judge. Hold the can about 10 - 12 inches from the surface. Be consistent through out the painting process. Although it is better to be too far than too close.

Here are the barrels after a few coats of gloss white.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2638/4084768185_7fc8937ca2_b.jpg


Here are the barrels after another few layers... Now waiting for clear coat.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2635/4084768647_e6192d7079_b.jpg


After your barrels have had some time to dry its time to move on to your centers.


I know I sound like a broken record, but just bare with me... :help This is for your own good.
TAKE YOUR TIME!

Sorry for yelling. :(
Its just that the centers aren't exactly easy to paint. I chose to lay a few "top" coats before I did anything else - This being just misting the top a few times.

Then I sprayed each spoke individually first from the outer edge inward toward the spokes. This is to get the portion where the spoke meets the center. I repeated this technique for the smaller spokes that form closer to the outer edge as well.

After that I did the reverse of what I just mentioned. I sprayed each spoke individually going from the center of the wheel toward the outer edge.


Now that you have the painted the areas where the spoke meets both the inner and outer edge of the wheel, its time to spray the "sides" of the spokes.
I usually chose the right side of the spokes first. Spraying in a side to side motion I painted each right side of every spoke. Then using the same technique I did each left side of every spoke.


By the time you have done each wheel, the wheel it self should look very painted. BUT it might be missing in some spots, use a bright light to check up close.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2737/4084769095_7313fb8687_b.jpg

Close up
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3261/4085527606_2e64e30d32_b.jpg


Now, since I have had lots of time painting and waiting. I have been spraying the center caps in the in between time.
The center caps are far easier to paint just remember to keep a consistence distance and use light layers, otherwise -
Just point and shoot.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2679/4084769269_d51f46d57e_b.jpg






































































And when you put them all together you get something like this -

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2615/4085528174_0f0c4bafbd_b.jpg

[BeemerBuyer]

Clear Coat!



I finally got some clear coat on the wheels. They look amazing, so glossy and they are nice and smooth.

I prepped by laying out my news paper and getting the lips,centers and caps all laid out on top of the news paper. The clear coat application wasn't very hard, nothing out of the ordinary. If your following this while doing your own set of wheels, you'll have the hang of it for sure.

I used the same techniques that I have been using all along the way. Refer to the painting update if your having troubles. Remember to do lots of light coats.



Area prepped and ready to start spraying.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2607/4124744069_bcfe5b805d_b.jpg

Its hard to tell, but this is after 2 or 3 coats.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2550/4124744561_795083c133_b.jpg



In total I did close to 6 or 7 coats... HAHA, maybe more I don't remember. After everything was dry I started on my center caps! Woot.

I didn't take a picture of the back of the BBS cap it self :banghead: I'll explain the best I can.
If you haven't already bought them you will be looking for the 70mm caps. I got mine from Puremotorsport. The 70mm caps have 3 prongs/clips that stick out.

I took pliers and gently started to bend these prongs back and forth until they broke off. I repeated this for each of the 4 caps.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2798/4125513938_2a2eff9d45_b.jpg

Then, after all the tabs are broken off, the back of the cap is semi flat. There is also a small lip that sticks out in addition to the 3 prongs that I broke off, but they aren't really a problem and they will mount just fine leaving them intact.

Using a hot glue gun I glued them in to the style 5 cap.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2491/4124745359_753216bd24_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2546/4124745699_22580a0b8b_b.jpg

Caps done. :alright


Now that those are done you can go back outside to start the reassembly process.

I didn't get very much done yesterday so Im going to get off the internet and go to work right now.

[BeemerBuyer]

Re-assembly.


What you will need -

Blue Threadlocker $5.50

Torque wrench I own mine... You should too. ~$50 :dunno

Steel wool

WD-40

10 in extention

10 point head



I was struggling so hard this morning trying to figure out how the hell I was going to get these back together. :help

Paint had gotten in to all the bolt holes, making it really hard to get the bolts through. So I used a round file to grind out all of the excess paint that was in the holes.
My bolts had become kind of rusty since they had been washed and then sat for a few weeks in a jar. :az I used steel wool to clean them off. Then hit them with some WD-40 to help them slide back into the lip.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2549/4126998402_e7441500b5_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2529/4126227981_4ab27238ba_b.jpg


Push the bolts hard enough into the lip so they aren't falling out on their own. Then after putting the bolts through the holes, put the centers in place over the bolts. To bring it all together use the power of the nut tightening itself on the bolt to bring the bolt back through the hole in the lip. After you've gotten the bolts pulled into the lip take off the nuts. Now apply one drop of threadlocker to each one and re-tighten, this time torque them down.

There is a lot of controversy about the torque specs for style 5s. If you search it there are many different answers you'll get. I don't know what is "correct" according to BBS.

That being said this is only what I did.

After tightening all the bolts gently, I started using the torque wrench. If you can imagine a clock, I went from 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock to 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock tighten each bolt to 15 foot pounds. Then go back and torque them all to 20 foot pounds.

So 15 ft/lbs first, then go to 20 ft/lbs.




I tried using a hammer to pound the bolts through the lip... God that was so stupid. It was a complete pain in the ass and I ended up nicking the lip with the hammer. :mad Here is prof that it is possible... its just not what I would suggest doing.
Here is one of the wheels after I had pounded the bolts back in. :rolleyes

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2656/4127028762_760044a423_b.jpg



Reassembled.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2689/4126267315_c0668ce3f8_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2749/4127055484_a9bd00cec3_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2651/4126260053_89740b4800_b.jpg

[BeemerBuyer]

Mounted.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2796/4129825105_5504a85e03_b.jpg

[Stolzy]

great write up

[Timppa]

Props for this! Glad about how someone has some extra powers to write a how-to while doing some serious prep work. Post some pics with those center caps on, I bet they don't look bad with them. The only thing that I would have done differently is the color of bolts (black), still sick though!

[implayaz9]

awsome write up.. will look forward to this diy when I get some bbs's

[Nit0]

This is awesome !!! Looks good!

[Junktion]

looks awesome, and thanks for the DIY. i plan to doing something like this with my set, and you definitely answered alot of my questions.

[BeemerBuyer]

Props for this! Glad about how someone has some extra powers to write a how-to while doing some serious prep work. Post some pics with those center caps on, I bet they don't look bad with them. The only thing that I would have done differently is the color of bolts (black), still sick though!


Thanks,
I would if I could, but I already sold them. :rofl

[ShanesG]

Great write up for sure!!!

[00bmw323]

i have done about 4 sets now 3style 5s and one set of style 19s...pretty easy one you have done the 1st...cant get a mirror finish yet:(

[ACTcLean]

such a good write up! this inspires me to refinish some beat VS-xx....

[MParallel]

.... I separated the nuts and bolts into two different jars each full of vinegar. ...

I did this too (well the nuts), which totally destroyed them.

[poynter]

Great write-up! I guess I got really lucky with mine being in such good shape, most I've seen look like yours before you started.

[kramerbuccs24]

I love it!!!

[BeemerBuyer]

I did this too (well the nuts), which totally destroyed them.

Can you describe what happened to them?

[H5G]

im in this process right now...but im not painting...good stuff mang

[Donfrondo]

Nice work, same process we did, all takes patience.

Matt wanted the polished look tho...

http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs119.snc1/4742_88394459510_503444510_1738298_240401_n.jpg


:D

[Five S]

Wow! this is cool. What I did with my car is that I change the color from black to marble green and black. It looks great and a lot of people turn their eyes onto to my car. I changed the rim from silver to white to because the color of the car is already black so the white rim is really hyped.

[ShadowWabbit]

^ that looks dangerous

[Johnny5]

came out real good!

[Dseyf]

Thank you for the DIY! however is there anything that go extremely wrong? LIke using to much Jasco?

[Vorsprung]

I'm in the middle of refinishing mine.
You can be pretty liberal with the Jasco on the lips and even the faces- it wont hurt the metal..

As for going wrong, the only big thing I see is over tightening the bolts on re-assembly- I've heard of them snapping.

[twastheglow]

Excellent write up!!! One question...why did you buy the higher grit sand paper? You didn't mention using it.

[brandyn]

How much rash were on these? did u get it all out?

does it look like the rash on these would come out?http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a236/rodoni/1312675657.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a236/rodoni/1312675613.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a236/rodoni/1312675531.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a236/rodoni/1312675455.jpg

[ThatEF9kid]

great wheel write up, def shows how putting time into something is much better than rushing

[DerTee30]

When going the polished route, after the sanding is complete what kind of polish would you guys recommend using? I'm about to tackle polishing the lips on my style 19s and I want to get as close as possible to mirror finish.

[BATESY]

Nice write up. style 5's are a pain in the ass to get apart sometimes.

[dubbed21]

great write up!!

[sacrifice]

This is such a great writeup. Very thorough and its great to see a picture for every step taken.

Definitely sticky worthy.

When going the polished route, after the sanding is complete what kind of polish would you guys recommend using? I'm about to tackle polishing the lips on my style 19s and I want to get as close as possible to mirror finish.

I have found that lowes has a decent selection of buffing wheels and compounds that will allow you to achieve a mirror or very very close to a mirror finish. The compounds they have come in small tubes and have different ratings/grits, just like sandpaper. You can easily get a bench grinder decent enough to polish lips, multiple compounds, and a wheel for each compound for about $75.

[irishguy0224]

Thanks for this! I have some Style 5's en route to me today and will be refinishing them as well. But will be polishing the lips. Awesome write up.

[Vodadubz]

I am at the middle of this process... as is my first intent on refurbishing a pair of wheels...
So glad a friend showed up with this thread. Excellent and very helpful!

Mines will be mounted on a VW, so 5x100 re-drill: DONE. :devillook

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v187/Corrado_Vodafone/2012-01-12160352.jpg



I did not knew how to get the bolts out of the barrel so I ended up TRYING to sand/polish the bolt heads while they were still mounted...
I attached some (many!) 400 or 600 wet sand paper cut offs to the 10mm (?) deep socket and went 1 by 1 on the bolt heads with the impact driver (power tool)... Very tedious process! You can see some progress in below... But this sh*t took me a lot of time and the grit paper shredded to pieces almost in every bolt head, requiring a lot of sand paper pieces, time and patience.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v187/Corrado_Vodafone/338963_783962117689_121802710_37323994_1605619050_ o.jpg


Anyone knows of any other BETTER way to polish the bolt heads???
Cannot afford to buy right now. :rolleyes

[Dangerwillrbnsn]

Place a punch in the indent of the back of the bolt. Hit punch with hammer to remove. Place bolt into a drill, spin to polish bolt.

[Vodadubz]

As simple as that. Thanks mate!

[roof_rack]

I just did this starting at 400 wet, 1000 wet, and then 2000 wet. I would not recommend any lower grit than 400 wet unless you have some serious abrasion like on the OP's wheels...cuts the aluminum way to deep, and it is alot of work to get it back to a smooth finish.

Here are mine, Stripper, 400 wet, 1000 wet, 2000 wet, No.7 Polishing Compound... tada!

Also, the stripper i used worked much much better than the Jasco...took everything off in one coat. I'll go downstairs and check the brand on that for you guys.


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7029/6699439391_0953a4b648_z.jpg

This is hand polishing ONLY, no wheel used here.

[BeemerBuyer]

Thanks for the compliments everyone! I appreciate it.



Place a punch in the indent of the back of the bolt. Hit punch with hammer to remove. Place bolt into a drill, spin to polish bolt.

This is great advice!

[Take2]

Place a punch in the indent of the back of the bolt. Hit punch with hammer to remove. Place bolt into a drill, spin to polish bolt.

That method takes for ever just FYI

[staystetti]

You probably need to strip the clear off of your bolts as well. Mine had a ton on them.

[Wu! Wraps]

sup sup, so this is a lil project of my own. picked these up mid week and have torn them apart & stripped all the clearcoat off 4 out of 5 rims. the 5th one i can't get the bolts out for the life of me!... all hardware has been soaked in vinegar for a day and cleaned up today. needs another soaking or some time with a steal cloth. plan is to get the lips polished and centers will be a dark gray/ dark gray hardware/ dark gray inner barrels... these will be going on my 1991 bmw 325i convertible (e30).

update:
got the 5th rim taken apart and dropped all wheels off at perfection powder coating in puyallup wa 2538750010. cost for powdercoating all 5 inner hoops, 5 faces, and 170 bolt heads in a dark gray color with tax was $595.00. powdering the 170 bolt heads was $46.00 with tax by itself!... well see how it all comes out!

also found a machine shop Proflections Metal Polishing 2537356111 in Auburn Wa that is gonna polish all the outer lips once back from powdercoater for $65per wheel so, $355 with tax.

next will be ordering some caps, bbs decals, nice metall valve stems & bbs valve caps & lastly tires....

http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz128/wu99wu/webDSCN4473.jpg
http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz128/wu99wu/webDSCN4476.jpg
http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz128/wu99wu/webDSCN4477.jpg
http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz128/wu99wu/webDSCN4474.jpg
http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz128/wu99wu/webDSCN4478.jpg
http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz128/wu99wu/webDSCN4475.jpg

[Wu! Wraps]

update:

so got the wheels back from powder coating. came out great! dropped off the 5 barrels at the metal polishers to get the lips done. still need to get someone to paint match the centers with the powder the shop gave me, put them back together, & find some tires for them! coming along nicely!

http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz128/wu99wu/webDSCN4837.jpg
http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz128/wu99wu/webDSCN4838.jpg
http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz128/wu99wu/webDSCN4839.jpg
http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz128/wu99wu/webDSCN4840.jpg
http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz128/wu99wu/webDSCN4841.jpg
http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz128/wu99wu/webDSCN4842.jpg
http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz128/wu99wu/webDSCN4848.jpg
http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz128/wu99wu/webDSCN4849.jpg
http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz128/wu99wu/webDSCN4852.jpg
http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz128/wu99wu/webDSCN4850.jpg

[Wu! Wraps]

update:

got my bbs replica resin decals, looks pretty good!
http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz128/wu99wu/webDSCN4935.jpg
http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz128/wu99wu/webDSCN4936.jpg

[NathanHeeney]

I followed this tutorial for painting my faces but I polished my lips and I put my bolts in Coca Cola. Great write up!

[jledford94]

Sorry to revive an old thread...
but how you remove the center caps without messing up the new paint? the only way i know how to get the center caps back out is the pry them off with a screw driver, but it gouges the paint. theres got to be a better way right????? i need to know fast i am rolling my fenders soon and need my wheels off but i dont want to mess them up:(

[jledford94]

sorry to revive an old thread but how do you get the center caps out without scratching the new paint?? i am rolling my fenders soon and i have to remove my wheels but the only way i know how is to pry them off with a screw driver but it gouges the piant... pleaseeee help i need them off.:(

[Wu! Wraps]

jledford94: mine are powdercoated and the center caps are painted to match the powder (since the centers are plastic). YES! they are tight as hell once on, i haven't messed with it yet, but i'm planning on bending the metal ring a bit more to see if it will get a lil bit looser on the plastic tabs. i'm assuming this will work fine. if that doesn't go well, maybe filing down the plastic tabs on the center caps where it clips into the wheel or filing down the powdercoat on that area will work too...

side note:

so my buddy at a shop is re-assembling my style 5's. ran into a problem, most of the spined bolts will go in, and he starts torquing them down and the spines get stripped and start spinning.... thus not being able to tighten them... he then tried to press/hammer them in real snug and then proceed to tighten them and same thing... has this happened to anyone else?... maybe my bolts are just completely shot?...

i went ahead and just ordered the style 5 rebuild kits u see on ebay, the alen key flat dome bolt head NON-spined with a 13mm nut on the back. was like $250shipped for 5 wheels worth.