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  • Best shox Accord cb9

    re-using my old shock threadI finally bought some form and function coilovers and I love the ride. The problem is that my frame is about 2" from the ground and I want to raise my spring rates. What can I do? And how do I match my shock dampering?
    Last edited by 244Brick; 03-26-2012, 02:15 PM.


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    R.I.P P.WALKER 2013/11/30

  • #2
    Uppp!!!


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    R.I.P P.WALKER 2013/11/30

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    • #3
      Anyone?


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      R.I.P P.WALKER 2013/11/30

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      • #4
        No love for hondas?


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        R.I.P P.WALKER 2013/11/30

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        • #5
          If I knew I would help you out bro, honestly I would join CB7Tuner & ask there, I'd say 1/4 or more of the forum has Function Forms & most are Type 2's..
          1. 1993 Accord 10th A.E.- Current Track Car Project
          2. 1993 Accord LX Wagon - Traded
          3. 1990 Integra LS Hatch - Sold
          4. 1991 CRX Si - Traded
          5. 1986 Cressida Sedan - Traded
          6. 1993 Impreza Wagon - Traded
          7. 1993 Accord DX Sedan - Traded
          8. 1987 Cressida Sedan - Current Drift Project
          9. 1989 Accord LX-I Coupe - Traded
          10. 1981 Corona Wagon - Current Daily

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          • #6
            yeah.. i got nothing. after the site went down a few months ago. Cb7tuner kinda died.


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            • #7
              Originally posted by 244Brick View Post
              yeah.. i got nothing. after the site went down a few months ago. Cb7tuner kinda died.
              yea i just got a cb7 too and no one will help

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              • #8
                Call up F2 and see exactly what rates your coils have, then go from there. I believe they're 8k fronts, 6k rears, which is pretty typical for a majority of Prelude and Accord setups. If you're looking to go stiffer, I'd get a pair of 9k springs that will fit your coilovers, then use the front springs you just replaced for the rear. Any 2.5" ID spring should work, I've swapped Tanabe Pro-210 coils onto F2T1s before to do exactly what you are trying to do. After the spring install, drive it a bit and adjust your dampening to suit how you want it to ride and handle.

                That's really about it.
                - Bagged '98 Chevy S10 - Stock '88 Volvo 240DL - Broken '87 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Also Broken '87 Shelby Lancer #707/800 -

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                • #9
                  I have the type 2s 12/8k . I want to up the springs to 14/16k you think i will over work the dampers?


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                  • #10
                    Holy shit they shipped the T2s with 12k fronts? That's ridiculous.

                    So you want 14k up front, and 16k out back? Makes sense, since you have a wagon, but I honestly think those are too stiff. The shocks should be able to handle that though, for awhile. You may need to keep them set at full stiff to keep from bouncing.
                    - Bagged '98 Chevy S10 - Stock '88 Volvo 240DL - Broken '87 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Also Broken '87 Shelby Lancer #707/800 -

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                    • #11
                      Yeah it's posted as 12k front and 8k rear.. I'm at full stiff now and it's too bouncy. I want a really firm ride


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                      • #12
                        If its' bouncing at the current rates on full stiff, adding springrate will only make it worse. Maybe try an 8/6 f/r, or even a 10/7 split.
                        - Bagged '98 Chevy S10 - Stock '88 Volvo 240DL - Broken '87 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Also Broken '87 Shelby Lancer #707/800 -

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                        • #13
                          Why do softer though that confuses me? i thought the lower you go the higher the SR to keep from smacking the ground? I wonder if i changed the rear to a 10 or 12 if that would work


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                          • #14
                            I believe that the stiffer you go the more it will bounce because of under dampening and the rebound is too much for the strut to handle so the spring rebounds too fast and causes it to "bounce". But if you go softer the rebound won't be as harsh so it shouldn't bounce but you are more likely to smack the ground which is a huge no no lol. So it's sorta a lose lose situation, either you're stiff and bouncy or you're to soft and you bottom out.

                            IDK if this is 100% true or not but this is mostly my understanding.



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                            • #15
                              ^ You've got it 100%. The only way you can stay stupid-low and keep a halfway decent ride is to have the shocks re-valved for the stiffer springs.

                              Sucks to roll hard huh?
                              - Bagged '98 Chevy S10 - Stock '88 Volvo 240DL - Broken '87 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Also Broken '87 Shelby Lancer #707/800 -

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